So I have I need to pull the engine temp down a little bit still and had this yes I will put the heater core on that was on it before.. but I will add a computor fan *its about 2/3 the size of the clubman core and hook it up to sync with the main radiators thermo fan.. but here comes my *bill and teds excellent adventure* idea!
What about if I hook up the electric water pump to the hose running into the heater core and sync it to the thermo fans? so the pump would be inactive whilst the temp is normal but as the thermo fans came on in traffic it would *hopefully increase* the water flow through the heater core?
The pump is a Shurflo 80-100psi pump that came with the stupid water methanol injection set up.
Im trying to find the exact pump model to make sure it can handle the temperature and pressure and flows enough water to enhance not detract from the flow. If the idea is sound then I could always look at a craig davies pump and try to reduce the intake/out to match
Anyway crap idea? or some merit?

Crap idea.

You need the water to go the right speed to cool the engine.
Too slow = overheating.
Too fast = overheating.

The water will circulate through the heater core at the correct speed without the extra pump.
If you try to speed up the flow the water does not have time to transfer heat to the core.

righto.. probably good I dont come up with any more great ideas under the influence of a good Chardonay. Although really I suspect Ive just been desperate to find a use for this stupid pump.. I could use it in the windscreen washer nozzels.. point them sideways and let madness and mayhem insue! at 100psi yes yes just a joke

Sell it to me - I need a water/methanol injection kit

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Too many cars, and too little time.

just hook up another radiator linked to your original radiator.

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71255

Okay... so far I have put a small transmission cooler just behind the grill as the gemini starter motor solenoid wont give me room for anything thicker and I have a circular finned oil cooler *yes I know not as effective* that leads from the grill *left hand corner* and flows the air up on an angle up the left hand fire wall. This combo seems to let it shed heat nicely at speed so far.
But the question remains.. a really *Melbourne 40+sucks hot day.. a freeway = fine.. come off freeway onto a series of lights and im pretty sure I will be struggling to shed the heat soak. Sure the thermo fan is pulling air nicely *hard up against the radiator* but as we all know the water flow at idle is less than inspiring.
Soo just as a what if! how about instead of small electric pump from the heater pipe/head connection *that would be pretty small flow compared to main head flow* I get a craig davies water pump NOT to replace the standard water pump but to put between the head out and radiator top in. Obviously a different angle thermostat housing is required and a spot to tuck the pump/hose. But to sync it with the thermo fan to come on *as it seems to want to only at lights after a long stretch*

Now Im not trying to re-engineer the cooling system, but just wondering if there is a way to *help* it along with the conditions I have given it. Im pretty sure if I wasnt running a sc1330 in stupid peak hour on stupidly hot days, the standard system in good order would be just chapper for the job.
Of course all this at this point is just *what ifs* as I was informed my temp gague is reading 20' above actual. Still I know Melbourne has some shocking days and if I get stuck in crap traffic I want to know if I have possible options

JJust a few questions, are you running a standard fan as well as the elctric fan, what temp range is your thermo, have you checked the gauge, what RPM have you got your idle set at, have you had the radiator serviced.

You really cant runan electric pump with a mechanical pump, its either or, look on a 40+ day you would expect the car to get warmer at the lights but if there is no steam and its not boiling chances are its all right, maybe bump the idle up a tad and put a 72 Deg thermo in for summer

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

To awnser I have a new alloy radiator from Race Radiators, It has a thermo fan for sitting at the lights and small transmission core and other cooler that have bought the running temp well into normal range when at speed. This is really to compensate for the missing radiator cowl *trying to build something at the moment* as I hate the stock cowl with a vengence.. every time I try to get that damned bottom hose off
As the layout is at the moment with a gemini starter/solenoid I just dont have room for a clubman heater core @ the grille so the transmission core is the thinest I could find (relieved the grille 10mills out) This left me with a 5"hole on the left side of the grille, I found an oil cooler that I use for added coolant capacity I believe this uses the space to its best effecency.
The thermo fan is hard up against the radiator *soft mounting kit* It also has the original 2x2 metal blade fan. I simply could not get the plastic one between the mounting point and the radiator unless I grind some of the lip off.
Is it safe to make the assumption that most mini's after a long run on a freeway (heat builds but system can cope) that then get stuck in heavy traffic (system still hot but less air/water flow) will struggle to shed sufficient heat on a 35'+ day?

Not sure on thermostat but know its drilled. Wouldnt this just effect when the thermostat opens? earlier/later depending on setting.

Next addition is a brass BMC expansion tank *if I can find one.. gawd I hate pick-a-part. Or I might scoure the net for a blingy pressurised tank.

Long run I expect I will run a small motor bike radiator in the left wing with another thermo fan. Run a similar oil cooler for the oil (more for added capacity than cooling) behind the front bumper bar as I need the right hand gap for the compressor when I get some airconditioning plummed in. And I want to get the bonnet reinforcment strap welded back on.

My 1430cc cools down well enough at lights and in between hillclimb runs without an extra radiator, just a good radiator and full sized thermo fan.
I ditched the stock fan and cowl (I hate them too).

It sits on the 78C of the thermostat except after a hard run, and I took off the spare heater core I had mounted behind the grill because it took too long to warm up.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Will wait till I get the new temp gague before I take the water pump off. Brian was dead right, the inside gague is reading 20' above actual temp, and that kept freaking me out.

Hijack in progress...

Awdmoke, did you mount the thermo in the inner guard or on the engine side of the radiator?

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Neither, Brett.

It fits nicely between the radiator and the guard.
Just an aftermarket fan from Repco, came complete with fitting kit - little plastic bits that mount through the radiator like some modern cars.
I'm sure there are some engine shots of MRBN on here somewhere, but they block photobucket here at work

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Too many cars, and too little time.

would it be possible to rig something like this up with a valve, so that you could bypass the heater core while the engine warms up, then open the valve so the plumbing went through the heater core? that way you'd have the extra cooling if required.

i was thinking thermostat but that wouldn't make any difference

miki, can you fit any more transmission cores across the entire grille? you could plumb them in series. could work

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78 Leyland Mini - Prince

You can get externally mounted thermostats, or you could just use a standard mini heater valve to open & close it. It just wasn't necessary to keep the engine cool so I removed it.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

When you say you want to drop the temp down; from what temp to what.
I was trying to sort out my temp issue for the last few days.Now I have a Speco gauge and 88 C thermostat. On a hot day (35) with air con on and doing 100 or bumper to bumper traffic I sit on 98 to 100 C. I recon around 90 to 100 C is okey . My thermo fan (factory) starts on 98 and stop on 93 C (according to the manual) and thermostat fully open on about 98 C. IMO cold thermostat is not good for hot Melbourne days; It will stay open and water will not have enough time in the radiator to cool down. Also I can recommend Water Wetter by Redline. Every one I talked to swears by it. I did not see any drop on the gauge my self but also it does lubricate the water pump apparently.