it's in and my part is finished. It has had a test run and basic tune-up, few little bugs sorted out. Now the bloke can pick the car up and finish off his bits ready for the test run.
And before you ask, yes it does fit under a round nose standard bonnet [with a slight clearance on the brace frame] and NO I have not put it on a dyno as this engine is fairly standard and the owner is not interested in a tarmak burner, he just wanted something a little different in his works replica car.
My next engine will be very different.

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

im impressed with this head conversion..even though i dont no much about it...but it looks neat and tidy..and i like it when a conversion like this fits under a standard bonet and a round nose to boot.
you said there was no dyno run...just curious on the power gains this would give just a ruff estament???say on a 1300cc motor..

_________________
started a new project...there goes all my free time....

gorgeous David...

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

love your work

Great work David, you Matt and Mr Elder are all making such tempting conversions you are spoiling us for choice

_________________
Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

So Sexy!

Glad it fits, I just bought a roundie shell to put my twinky in.

I've decided the Moke can stay as is, in all it's Auto goodness for now.

One question, where did you connect the booster? I couldn't see a way to connect a booster to vacuum on mine.

Cheers,

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

the underside of the inlet ports have a 5mm cap screw in a hole. drill them out to 1/8"BSP and connect the 4 inlets to a manifold then to booster

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

For all those who sent e-mails and messages about this conv I will try to give you all the details here.

Firstly , this is the LAST engine I am building for anyone but build kits and info are available if you want to have a go at one.
I am just building engines for my own use.

This engine cost all up $4000-00 running [including purchase of 1275 short engine $500, head $450. block completely re-built pistons/rings bearings ,grinding etc etc]
If you build one up your self then the whole cost would be less than$3000 for rebuild eng

COST
conv. kit includes all block/head modifications and machining. new oil p/p & dist housings. cam pullys, crank pullys belt tensioners. New oil p/p , 2nd hand dist. Bike exhaust cut & shut into extractors. All you have to do is block re build and assemble engine.
Conv kit complete is $2000

This engine has weber air filter fitted and fits under round nose bonnet except for the filter closest to radiator requires a bit taken out of the bonnet brace.

The radiator is shifted out by 1/2" [unless it is a chinese one,they do not fit original mounting anyway]

the water pump and alt are driven as per standard, but new pullys for belt position supplied in kit . another crank pully is fitted to drive them. the balancer type is modified to suit timing belt drive.

A small bore block requires a small cut out in 2&3 cylinders for std bore to clear v/v's done in kit cost.

the block has all the original threads and water ports plugged and then re-drilled to suit head. The engine does not have a head gasket and I now use a 1mm alloy spacer plate to suit bores, that has copper fire rings for cylinder seal and "O"ring seals for water ports. The required comp ration is from machining top of piston unless the engine is boosted then thicker plate can be used.

as for HP I do not get into this arguement, but the heads from the testing I have done and some of the other engines done by others are roughly 20 upto 40 more. some are a lot more but they are going to go bang sooner or later. the final output will depend on how you build the engine and revs etc. reliable or a hand grenade It's your desision.
The other bonus is the engine runs on un-leaded fuel

Finally if you can not build up a engine then do not worry about doing one. they require a certain amount of skill to get them right and running them properly. The only reason I say this is that some of the blokes on here are not mechanics and have not enough experience with something like this and could get them selves into big trouble with a build like this.
Please think long and hard before you make any decision. money is hard to find let alone wasting it.

end of serom

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

just to clarify david but do you mean you're not the one making the conversion kits? are they similar/identical to what you have done here?

Thats nice

OK clarification
I am still doing kits [all machining and new componets to suit] you supply either F3 or F4 head and engine block 1275 or small bore. then you build up the engine exactly how you want.
I am NOT interested in building up a complete running engine, as it is TOO time consuming and this whole project has been based on keeping the cost to a minimum, plus everyone has different ideas and HP requirements, AND I want to finish off my cars and engines.!!!!!!!!

The only parts now required for engine block is pistons, rings and bearings. You do not need cam brgs as the old cam is in the bin. The conversion still uses the std water pump. The following prices[ with in a few dollars] are from my supplier Auto Pro in Gawler for the block re-build.
Pistons and rings $ 200
bearings[ big end/main]/thrusts $180
Re-bore/hone $110 [Harmon engineering]
crank grind $140 [Harmon engineering]
So the whole conversion is cheap, that's why I run carbys and dizzy

If you want to build up a conv but do not want a kit, then I will send you the info on how I do the conversion and walk you thru it. I have done this for blokes O/Seas and here in Aust.
HOWEVER the way I do the conv the cylinder head/ cam cover is line bored for support brg and drives for oil pump[ now external] and dizzy.
The block requires existing holes plugged and re-drilled/tapped.
The engine DOES NOT run a std make head gasket, so the alumin plate is used for this purpose.[ a honda gasket is $140 odd] The plate arrangement cost is less than $10 for head replacement.
You will need access to lathe and milling machine and make up jigs and tooling.

So I hope this has now clarified the situation

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

Just beautiful David,,,

I imagine the carbies had to richened up to make it run (on the bike they would face the other way and have a fully enclosed air cleaner box?)

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

thanks for the clarification david
will be looking at something like this eventually

That really does look like the Ducks Nuts doesnt it.

_________________
ANY SEA ANY TIME

fit a set of jets out of a cbr 1100 and change the needles [ ones out of 1 1/2 SU with spring bias top fit exactly]
The thing I have found is to open out the air to emulsion tube/ needle seat[the needle does not run directly in the jet body like SU] and open out the holes in base of piston so it lifts quicker.
I am still learning with these carbys but the next engine I am building is fitted with SC14 and blow thru the carbys

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com