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| gearbox numbers can you explain? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=59115 |
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| Author: | mini is my ride [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 2:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | gearbox numbers can you explain? |
Hi I know you can tell engine numbers and there is place to read them but how do I get on with gearboxes (sumps whatever you call them) Is there a place (website) or book that tells you or is there someone out there that knows all of them. You see I am trying to make sure the type of gearbox I have is what I think it is...if that makes sense Thanks 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 2:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
There is a number cast on the front. Post it on here and we can ID it. Or get a copy of Mini King's 2008 parts catalog. |
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| Author: | mini is my ride [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:05 pm ] |
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Maybe this post should be explain gearboxes to me sorry if i am slow 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 6:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
OK... I would forget all the old 3 synchro ones for a start, unless you are doing up a Mk1 Cooper S or a 997/998 Cooper. The 4 synchro 22G1128 box (with remote change) came out first in the Mini 1100K and the Mk2 Cooper S. It was then used in all Clubbies up until 1974 approx. Then, the rodchange box took over. It was a bit cheaper to make. However it did not have the extra engine mount, found on back of the remote shift extension. So, the motor rocks about much more, like the old 850 did. They fitted an extra top engine steady which helped a bit, but their mountings rip out of the bulkhead easily. The remote box 22G1128 uses all the same gears and shafts as the Oz rodchange one (except reverse gear). Both can be easily converted to Mk2 Cooper S ratios by changing 2 gears only. It is pretty cheap to do this. The A+ rodchange box got here from about 1978 or so. It has different gear ratios, a stronger mainshaft, and is not the same as the common rodchange box used previously. It is comparatively rare. The gear linkage on both the rodchange boxes gets sloppy with time and is harder to fix than the remote ones, new parts are rare.... My favourite? The remote box, every time. It is so well located against torque reaction. Even with 120HP+ I don't need any extra steadies. |
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| Author: | kiwiinwgtn [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 6:49 pm ] |
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Hi Kev Don't you hve to change the first motion shaft as well Ta Bernard |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 7:13 pm ] |
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yeah that's one of the `gears' I mentioned, the other is the cluster gear. Cooper S 1st motion shaft is getting rare now in Oz, but you can use a 1275GT one instead. p/no DAM3167. If you do this you need to also use an A+ mainshaft (aka 3rd motion shaft) because the needle bearing inside is 18mm not 14. BTW I can convert the early mainshaft to take the 18mm bearing if going this way. PM me for details. |
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| Author: | Asphalt [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 7:45 pm ] |
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There's an excellent thread on the Mini Cooper Register Forum: http://forum.minicooper.org/showthread. ... ox+numbers I hope Oz numbers don't differ 
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| Author: | Timbo [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:10 pm ] |
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Another similar thread on the Mk1 conversions forum: http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=152&forumid=250646 Tim |
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