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oil problem
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=59830		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  carter [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:23 pm ]
Post subject:  oil problem
hey guys just wondering i have a bad oil leak that needs to be fixed but i need to drive my car tomorrow i only have a oil light is there any way in telling with my light when im getting low on oil and it needs topping up?????
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Keep it topped up at or above full mark.
That light comes on at about 8psi or so, is useless really. By the time it blinks your bearings are running out of oilz. :lol:
Author:  carter [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
ok thanks doc. ill do my best to keep it topped up cheers
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
yeah Doc is right,,, they`re (the oil light) supposed to be an oil "Warning" devise

But they are more of an -->"your engine is now stuffed" light

How bad is the oil leak?... like a litre per day??? 4 litres per day??? how much are you loosing during how long a period???
& where is it comming from???
Author:  carter [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
ok from what i can gatherits leaking form the bottom of the timing chain cover where i cant get and also the orange seal where flywheel is. as to how much, i go for a drive round town and come back and within say 1/2 hour there is 2 puddles/marks about the size of a cd......
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok,,, fist up i`d be checking your crank case pressure,,, it maybe that there is issues with either the breathers being blocked,,, or not even having engine breathers,,, or your piston rings are showing some serious signs of being quite worn,,, or maybe all of the above

how old is the engine?

& like i said before,,,, & please don`t answer in the size/dimentions of the puddle of oil on the floor) check how much oil you are "Using" by topping it up to the maximum mark on the dip stick,,, then go about your usual driiving & checking the miles/Kms you`re doing & then re-checking the dip-stick to see how much you`ve lost, over how long a drive

got it>>>???

this will help us establish how much you`re loosing & how quickly you are loosing it

either way tho,,, seems like an engine out job is going to be wanted to effect the repairs/replacement of seals on both ends of the engine at least
Author:  carter [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
ok engine has just been rebuilt.how much is being used ill have to get back to you on that one sry.
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ah ok,,, well that`s a start,,, go & check that you actually have some engine breathers fitted,,, (i ilke to have at least 2 on roady engines & a minimum of 3 on big phat race donks) & if so, then make sure they are not blocked up

if there isn`t any engine breathers,,, or they are blocked,,, then your engine will want to breath "Through" your oil seals instead

do you know what the engine breathers are? look like? where they`re (meant to be) fitted etc???
Author:  74snail [ Sat Dec 26, 2009 11:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Also is the oil synthetic or mineral , a synthetic oil in a motor thats not breathing properly as Matt said, will get thinner as it gets hot and pushes out the seals, it then coats everything in a thin film which runs off as it gets hot adding to the oil that's pushing out the seals, I use Penrite HPR 30- 20w-60 Mineral , the "Snail's" motor is bog stock standard( different head and carby ) as it rolled out in 74, its only done 43,00km's , the previous owner had the car serviced with synthetic oil and the motor and engine bay had a thin film of oil , with regular services with HPR 30 I really only have the normal fume of oil, I also use the "Snail" on a regular basis which keeps the seals in good condition.




.
Author:  miniDave [ Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:37 am ]
Post subject: 
This is what has happened to me last week with a similar sounding problem:

miniDave wrote:
Update.

It appears there has been problems with the crank seal in the timing cover. Similar problems have surfaced and it appears that the seal falls back into the timing cover. One suggestion was to use a plastic to metal loctite (the DOC says NO to this (edit)) to keep the seal in place. Don't know if it is the production of the seal itself or the actual timing cover moulding but it sounds like there is a slight taper toward the inside and the seal works its way loose. I noticed when the engine was taken out that the timing cover was a blue colour when the rest of engine was a gold colour. So someone has replaced it somewhere along the line. Seems that some timing covers are OK with seals and some are not.


I pulled the radiator out and removed the timing cover. The seal was still in the correct place but was not centered correctly and I could see where it was wearing on the extreme bottom of the seal (probably meaning the top of the seal was letting oil out). Another thing I found that the cover was not dead flat all around the bolt holes and with just a gasket, maybe oil was leaking past. I used another timing cover and seal - making sure that the seal is centered around crank evenly, and used some Ultra Grey compound on both sides of the gasket and no more problems.

A pain as it is you will have to investigate further.
Author:  carter [ Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:59 am ]
Post subject: 
can you do this with the motor still in the car?
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:14 am ]
Post subject: 
yes, you can do the front (timing cover) seal with the engine in the car,,,

& you can do the rear (primary-clutch) seal with the engine in the car

BUT!!! """IF""" you have to do both front & rear seals,,, then it`s just as easy to take the donk out to do the both,,, & while you`re at it , with the engine out you can attack any other ugly areas that need attention

but just my 2 cents worth,,, i`d still be checking the amount of crank case pressure & if its excessive , then find out why first tho
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