I've noticed a few `stroker 998s' have been rebuilt with a 1098 crank & pistons, by a couple of well known Mini engine rebuilders a few years apart (no names, no pack drill), and both have left the old 998's tin crank pulley on them.

Isn't this a BAD idea?
Vizard implied in his books that any long stroke crank with no harmonic balancer would have a very short lifespan.

True or false??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Of all A series engines, a Harmonic Balance is a MUST on these. They do have the longest of any standard stroke at 3.3" and the cranks while 'fairly strong', are not 'stout'. These cranks would 'feel' the harmonics more so than any other standard crank,

poignant topic for me and yes i'm on the look out for a good 1098 Harmonic balancer...why go off half balanced when everything else is..harmonics is like Serenity

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Good ol' "s" balancers will do the trick for you Gaf
get it balanced with all the other bits and pieces and you'll be right

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

hehe everything balanced but have to get a balancer thats not cracked up

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Gaf,
Just because the rubber looks cracked on the back, it may not be inside, really. (same story with 67> lower arm rubber bushes)
Slice it off flush with a blade, if it looks OK then, it's good to go.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If it's just the rubber that looks cracked, do as the doc suggests, but you'll find that most, if not all of them have rubber that has cracks on the parts of it you can see.

The standard 1100 or late 998 ones (p/n 88G305) will get the job done quite OK.

What if the engine has all been put back together?
Can you just bolt the HB on?
And if the engine has been all balanced does it mean you don't need the HB or is the actual harmonics that do the damage eventually?

Not for me you understand . . . but I have a friend that will need to know.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

The term `harmonic balancer' is a misnomer, it has nowt to do with crank dynamic balance really. It is correctly called a crank damper in the US, because it damps torsional oscillations in the crank.
The longer the crank stroke, the more one is supposed to be needed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Morning Kev,

Found this place that sells the balancer:
http://www.precisionparts.com.au/Pages/ ... _page.html

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Do they still make them though??
You can also get them new (or they rebond yours) from Ross Tuffbond in Blacktown. Wombat got his there.
http://www.rossperformanceparts.com/

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Read another page and it looks like the Mini ones are 'exchange'.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Yes, the engine is best balanced as an assembly (a good balancer person will start with the crank, balance that and then add one piece at a time and balance that etc), however, if the engine has been balanced and say you need to replace the HB, then just have the new HB balanced. It is not 100% correct, but is very very acceptable, should get you better than 99.95%. If you don't like the idea of that, then pull your engine down and have it all done again.

And as has been discussed before, the final part is a Timing belt , the rubber belt acts like an extra harmonic balancer .




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Ive got a few....

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