Hi everyone,
I was driving home tonight and i thought i could hear a rumbling noise so i backed off the throttle and let the revs and speed drop. The noise slowed down as speed and revs dropped. At first i thought it was grinding a bearing or something, so i put the clutch in and revved it with no load (while driving, not the right thing to do but i wanted to figure the problem out) and the noise stayed the same. So i rev matched to 4th and accelerated and the noise got louder and faster. I babied it home (about 2k's) and have parked it until further diagnosis.
Can anyone see whats wrong? All i could figure out was the diffs, but thinking about it it might be wheel bearings, im not sure on the condition of those.

Are there any other ways i could determine the problem? The engine and gearbox were recond 10 000 ks ago, so im really hoping it isnt broken.
Thanks for your help,
Joe

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Simplify and add lightness

You definately need someone with a crystal Ball here mate. How can any one tell you exactly what is wrong with a car by you explaining what is being heard. Noises might sound different to different people too. Then on the other hand the person Guessing about "What it could be" will be rewarded with the Title "Di@K Head" for not guessing correctly. Take it to a professional or investigate better yourself if money is an issue and do not drive it further and perhaps cause more problems. The noise "could be" a bearing in the drop gears too so engine will need to come out any way if you want to fix it properly.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Does it change if you gently swing the steering>

Are all the wheel nuts tight?

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

I think it is highly unlikely to be the diff. They are pretty robust & just don't pack up like that unless your'e doing an Evan Green (RIP) in a BMC works rally car.

My Moke did a LHS wheel bearing recently. The noise was pretty loud & you could feel the vibration thru the floor of the car.

That's what I'd be looking at first.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

When the diff pin & spider gears are gone the steering usually pulls about L><R.
If not doing that, I'd say wheel bearings...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Loose wheel nuts, or a wheel bearing is shot. 2 cents

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Too many cars, and too little time.

+1 for wheel bearing

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

similar thoughts for me when crunchy grindy noises appeared on the Mundi Mundi and i was left on the side of the highway with a CV that lost all its bearings.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

I had the same problem and foud out it was the bearing ( pinion end )
that had collasped so have to pull apart and rebuild box rod change
grahame

Well ive got some wheel bearings, so ill replace both sides and keep everyone posted on what the outcome is. I checked for play in the bearing by jacking it off the ground and holding the wheel at 12 and 6 and waggling it back and forth. There was a definite clunking on the passenger side but nothing on the drivers side.

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Simplify and add lightness

Well ive got some wheel bearings, so ill replace both sides and keep everyone posted on what the outcome is. I checked for play in the bearing by jacking it off the ground and holding the wheel at 12 and 6 and waggling it back and forth. There was a definite clunking on the passenger side but nothing on the drivers side.

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Simplify and add lightness

ultra tune

What happens when you spin the wheel? If the noise is really bad when driving you will possibly notice a roughness as you turn the wheel. And when you shake the wheel as you said, you should look to see if the play is in the balljoints. You should check your steering for play while your at it.

IMO i wouldn't just go replacing wheel bearings hoping that was the problem, i would investigate further first. Just my 2 cents

Well ive replaced the wheel bearings on the passenger side with cooper s roller bearings. I used the bearing spacer from the set of wheel bearings that came out (it was wider than the one that came with the cooper s bearings) and when i bolted it all back together theres a lot of play in the drivetrain (maybe 10 degrees from diff output through rubber unis into cv then onto drive flange). Is this normal? I dont remember it being that sloppy before. Ive not done a test drive as i still need to bleed the brakes.

I also tightened the cv nut to 60 lb/ft, is this the same even though it is cooper s bearings?
Thanks for your help,
Joe

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Simplify and add lightness

1. The spacer that came with the new bearings is machined for them, pull it apart again and put the new spacer in.
2. If it is drum brake do to 60 lb/ft, does not matter on bearing type it is to do with CV type.
Cheers Pete

<edit> spelling

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