Hi, any help please what would a 1275 motor out of a 1100s be worth with a coopers 11 stud head. Motor not going as he said the thrust washers are worn allowing crank to much movment and could not get clutch to work properley kept slipping

rebuild it . . . Where in Tassie are you as I may know someone there who can help out shortly if you are interested

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

live in tullah on the west coast

Only option. As for it's worth, probably two knobs of goatsh!t because, by the sound of it, good chance the crank is rooted and other related damage.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Well I will soon (end of the month) be in Devo if thats any help to you

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Thats a looooooooooooooooooot of endfloat

You can still get cranks easy enough though if you need one..... $$$$


Crabby, what's included?

it also come with rod change box and 11stud cooper s head

Yes, and a good chance the centre main in the block too, which may mean the block is also US. But the fault description does not make sence.

Oh ok, well thats something...

I gotta say,,, I reckon there is more to it than that,,, '

your thrust washers cop the most wear when you're sitting around with your foot on the clutch (because it loads up the crank sideways),,, I don't know if its actually possible to wear your thrusts that much I think you could just about remove the thrust washers and the clutch would still engage (you might need to adjust it a bit )

I reckon there is more to this....

Can I ask what the guys asking for?

Endfloat alone is not reason to ditch a 1275 crank.
The thrust faces can be reground, +.030" thrust washers are available, and you can even make a thicker one from solid bronze if you have to (but do put it on the crank pulley side, not the flywheel where the clutch force is).
I have a 1310 motor here with one of these in it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If the thrust surfaces & thrust bearings are that worn then its most likly that the crank & block are throw away, but I doubt that the clutch problem is related to the crank thrusts. The thrust surfaces can be machined/cleaned up and oversize thrusts are available, up to 030. Make sure the head is a genuine S head, rather than a std 1275 head with the extra holes drilled, Mk 1 S heads are numbered AEG163 and have the westlake "W" cast into the top surface behind the thermostat hole, Mk 2 S heads have a part number stamped behind the thermostat hole (12G938). If the crank, block, rods and head are all good/reconditionable condition than its worth up to $1000 in my opinion.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

He stated clutch started slipping some time after he ajusted sound like he put thrust washer on wrong have to check it out

oi,
12G938 was a 9 stud Morris 1100S head. Mk2 S ones (most) were stamped 12G1805 there.
The only real difference inside the casting was the S had 1/16" bigger inlets and a bit of a clean up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Im glad someones paying attention. Sorry my mistake
I know somone who has the wrong head on there Clubman GT then

_________________
Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Meh... it's only a GT.
(dons flameproof suit)
My GT (was bent, so we wrecked it) had a Mk1 S block and a ported 1100S head. I'm still running that head on my 1360, with an RE282 cam and 1.5 rockers, it kicks arse.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.