Hi, any help please what would a 1275 motor out of a 1100s be worth with a coopers 11 stud head. Motor not going as he said the thrust washers are worn allowing crank to much movment and could not get clutch to work properley kept slipping
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| Author: | crabby [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | cost of motor |
Hi, any help please what would a 1275 motor out of a 1100s be worth with a coopers 11 stud head. Motor not going as he said the thrust washers are worn allowing crank to much movment and could not get clutch to work properley kept slipping
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| Author: | BALLISTIC [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:23 pm ] |
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 rebuild it . . . Where in Tassie are you as I may know someone there who can help out shortly if you are interested  
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| Author: | crabby [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | motor |
live in tullah on the west coast |
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:27 pm ] |
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Only option. As for it's worth, probably two knobs of goatsh!t because, by the sound of it, good chance the crank is rooted and other related damage. |
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| Author: | BALLISTIC [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:32 pm ] |
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Well I will soon (end of the month) be in Devo if thats any help to you
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| Author: | Phat Kat [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:28 pm ] |
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AEG163job wrote: Only option. As for it's worth, probably two knobs of goatsh!t because, by the sound of it, good chance the crank is rooted and other related damage.
Thats a looooooooooooooooooot of endfloat 
You can still get cranks easy enough though if you need one..... $$$$ Crabby, what's included? |
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| Author: | crabby [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | motot |
it also come with rod change box and 11stud cooper s head |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:32 pm ] |
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AEG163job wrote: Only option. As for it's worth, probably two knobs of goatsh!t because, by the sound of it, good chance the crank is rooted and other related damage.
Yes, and a good chance the centre main in the block too, which may mean the block is also US. But the fault description does not make sence. |
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| Author: | Phat Kat [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:40 pm ] |
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Oh ok, well thats something... I gotta say,,, I reckon there is more to it than that,,, ' your thrust washers cop the most wear when you're sitting around with your foot on the clutch (because it loads up the crank sideways),,, I don't know if its actually possible to wear your thrusts that much I think you could just about remove the thrust washers and the clutch would still engage (you might need to adjust it a bit  )
I reckon there is more to this.... Can I ask what the guys asking for? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:40 pm ] |
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Endfloat alone is not reason to ditch a 1275 crank. The thrust faces can be reground, +.030" thrust washers are available, and you can even make a thicker one from solid bronze if you have to (but do put it on the crank pulley side, not the flywheel where the clutch force is). I have a 1310 motor here with one of these in it. |
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| Author: | 850man [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:42 pm ] |
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If the thrust surfaces & thrust bearings are that worn then its most likly that the crank & block are throw away, but I doubt that the clutch problem is related to the crank thrusts. The thrust surfaces can be machined/cleaned up and oversize thrusts are available, up to 030. Make sure the head is a genuine S head, rather than a std 1275 head with the extra holes drilled, Mk 1 S heads are numbered AEG163 and have the westlake "W" cast into the top surface behind the thermostat hole, Mk 2 S heads have a part number stamped behind the thermostat hole (12G938). If the crank, block, rods and head are all good/reconditionable condition than its worth up to $1000 in my opinion. |
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| Author: | crabby [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | motor |
He stated clutch started slipping some time after he ajusted sound like he put thrust washer on wrong have to check it out |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:53 pm ] |
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850man wrote: If the thrust surfaces & thrust bearings are that worn then its most likly that the crank & block are throw away, but I doubt that the clutch problem is related to the crank thrusts. The thrust surfaces can be machined/cleaned up and oversize thrusts are available, up to 030. Make sure the head is a genuine S head, rather than a std 1275 head with the extra holes drilled, Mk 1 S heads are numbered AEG163 and have the westlake "W" cast into the top surface behind the thermostat hole, Mk 2 S heads have a part number stamped behind the thermostat hole (12G938). If the crank, block, rods and head are all good/reconditionable condition than its worth up to $1000 in my opinion.
oi, 12G938 was a 9 stud Morris 1100S head. Mk2 S ones (most) were stamped 12G1805 there. The only real difference inside the casting was the S had 1/16" bigger inlets and a bit of a clean up. |
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| Author: | 850man [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:17 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: 850man wrote: If the thrust surfaces & thrust bearings are that worn then its most likly that the crank & block are throw away, but I doubt that the clutch problem is related to the crank thrusts. The thrust surfaces can be machined/cleaned up and oversize thrusts are available, up to 030. Make sure the head is a genuine S head, rather than a std 1275 head with the extra holes drilled, Mk 1 S heads are numbered AEG163 and have the westlake "W" cast into the top surface behind the thermostat hole, Mk 2 S heads have a part number stamped behind the thermostat hole (12G938). If the crank, block, rods and head are all good/reconditionable condition than its worth up to $1000 in my opinion. oi, 12G938 was a 9 stud Morris 1100S head. Mk2 S ones (most) were stamped 12G1805 there. The only real difference inside the casting was the S had 1/16" bigger inlets and a bit of a clean up. Im glad someones paying attention. Sorry my mistake
I know somone who has the wrong head on there Clubman GT then
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:35 pm ] |
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850man wrote: drmini in aust wrote: 850man wrote: If the thrust surfaces & thrust bearings are that worn then its most likly that the crank & block are throw away, but I doubt that the clutch problem is related to the crank thrusts. The thrust surfaces can be machined/cleaned up and oversize thrusts are available, up to 030. Make sure the head is a genuine S head, rather than a std 1275 head with the extra holes drilled, Mk 1 S heads are numbered AEG163 and have the westlake "W" cast into the top surface behind the thermostat hole, Mk 2 S heads have a part number stamped behind the thermostat hole (12G938). If the crank, block, rods and head are all good/reconditionable condition than its worth up to $1000 in my opinion. oi, 12G938 was a 9 stud Morris 1100S head. Mk2 S ones (most) were stamped 12G1805 there. The only real difference inside the casting was the S had 1/16" bigger inlets and a bit of a clean up. Im glad someones paying attention. Sorry my mistake I know somone who has the wrong head on there Clubman GT then :lol: Meh... it's only a GT. (dons flameproof suit)
My GT (was bent, so we wrecked it) had a Mk1 S block and a ported 1100S head. I'm still running that head on my 1360, with an RE282 cam and 1.5 rockers, it kicks arse. 
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