ausmini :: View topic - Timing settings and Distributors

Settings sound about right. It's kicking back because you get spark from zero rpm with an electronic dizzy, unlike a Lucas with points.
After smashing 3 or so starter pinions on mine, I put a kill switch on the coil lead.
So I spin it up on the starter, then throw the kill switch to ON.
Works for me... :wink:

Good alternative- fit a Gemini starter (but won't fit behind your S oil cooler).

overall advance sounds good 13 degrees at idle sounds a litttle high but will depend on what speed yopu have idle set at, static timing should be about 6-8 degrees and normal idle about 10 or that is what the Aldon reds i ahve had have been like.

Depends what cam and head shape you have- mine is 20 degrees at idle and 38 total... :shock:

idle speed 1300.

feralsprint wrote:

Ok Thanks, how do I tell which model Aldon I have?

I have a couple of questions.

1. I have a Aldon Electronic Distributor, how do I tell what model it is.

Thanks

One for you Doc, what would i static time my 1310 to suit the Pulsar dizzy that i have for it , that has been modded by GR, as i do not have a timing light that you can set the advance degrees at,. When i first put it in and give it a run to see what it was like i think i had it set at about 5 degrees .
Colin

We used to tip 2 gals of methyl benzine in the tanks and advance it more.

Author:	phillb [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:26 pm ]
Post subject:	Timing settings and Distributors
I have a couple of questions. 1. I have a Aldon Electronic Distributor, how do I tell what model it is. 2. I have a 1300 Cooper S with 1.5 rockers, 1.5 SU's and an unknown cam. The current idle timing is 13deg BTDC and max advance seems to be 24deg. What (approximately) should be the correct timing for this setup be? I've noticed the car often has kick back when cold starting. Do the above settings sound about right or should I try more retarded till the kickback disappears. Thanks

Author:	drmini in aust [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:32 pm ]
Post subject:
Settings sound about right. It's kicking back because you get spark from zero rpm with an electronic dizzy, unlike a Lucas with points. After smashing 3 or so starter pinions on mine, I put a kill switch on the coil lead. So I spin it up on the starter, then throw the kill switch to ON. Works for me... Good alternative- fit a Gemini starter (but won't fit behind your S oil cooler).

Author:	feralsprint [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:47 pm ]
Post subject:
overall advance sounds good 13 degrees at idle sounds a litttle high but will depend on what speed yopu have idle set at, static timing should be about 6-8 degrees and normal idle about 10 or that is what the Aldon reds i ahve had have been like.

Author:	phillb [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:51 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: Settings sound about right. It's kicking back because you get spark from zero rpm with an electronic dizzy, unlike a Lucas with points. After smashing 3 or so starter pinions on mine, I put a kill switch on the coil lead. So I spin it up on the starter, then throw the kill switch to ON. Works for me... Good alternative- fit a Gemini starter (but won't fit behind your S oil cooler). OK Thanks, ...what is the diff with the gemini starter, is it just tougher? ...also I note my original handbook gives 2deg BTDC at 600 idle for the S (and 5deg for others), why is this setting so much more retarded? Cheers

Author:	drmini in aust [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:51 pm ]
Post subject:
Depends what cam and head shape you have- mine is 20 degrees at idle and 38 total... idle speed 1300. They retarded the S idle advance because of the 9.75:1 C/R and crap fuel back then. We used to tip 2 gals of methyl benzine in the tanks and advance it more. Gemini starter is pre-engaged type like all modern ones. And it has bigger balls.

ausmini https://www.ausmini.com/forums/

Timing settings and Distributors https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=60336	Page 1 of 2

Author:	phillb [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:52 pm ]
Post subject:
feralsprint wrote: overall advance sounds good 13 degrees at idle sounds a litttle high but will depend on what speed yopu have idle set at, static timing should be about 6-8 degrees and normal idle about 10 or that is what the Aldon reds i ahve had have been like. Ok Thanks, how do I tell which model Aldon I have?

Author:	bnicho [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:58 pm ]
Post subject:
On this same subject, what are others running on the Pulsar dizzies. I'm running 10 degrees at 1000rpm on a D4R85 in the 1275 A+ Auto Moke. My motor is supposed to have 9.75:1 compression factory spec and I'm a little concerned I may have too much advance at the top end. Cheers,

Author:	phillb [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:40 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: Depends what cam and head shape you have- mine is 20 degrees at idle and 38 total... idle speed 1300. So is the next step to simply experiment a little either side of these settings to see what yields best performance?

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 6:48 am ]
Post subject:
Most 1275s like 25-28 degrees max advance. And if you have a cam in it they like more static and low end advance. When GR mods a Pulsar dizzy, he restricts the centrifugal advance plate to about 9° max (ie 18° @ crank). Ignore the settings I gave for mine, it has a special head shape (bathtubbed, no squish area). So needs 38° max advance to work.

Author:	feralsprint [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 5:18 pm ]
Post subject:
phillb wrote: feralsprint wrote: overall advance sounds good 13 degrees at idle sounds a litttle high but will depend on what speed yopu have idle set at, static timing should be about 6-8 degrees and normal idle about 10 or that is what the Aldon reds i ahve had have been like. Ok Thanks, how do I tell which model Aldon I have? Your dizzy should have a number engraved on it and if you contact Aldon they should be able to give you the specs for it http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/

Author:	GT mowog [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 6:07 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Timing settings and Distributors
phillb wrote: I have a couple of questions. 1. I have a Aldon Electronic Distributor, how do I tell what model it is. Thanks Typically, they did 2 off the shelf dissys for the A series (Red or Yellow) and these were available with and without vacuum advance. If it is one of these off the shelf types, it will have a R or a Y in the number that Aldon (should) have scratched in to the body of it.

Author:	goodie [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 6:53 pm ]
Post subject:
One for you Doc, what would i static time my 1310 to suit the Pulsar dizzy that i have for it , that has been modded by GR, as i do not have a timing light that you can set the advance degrees at,. When i first put it in and give it a run to see what it was like i think i had it set at about 5 degrees . Colin

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:41 pm ]
Post subject:
goodie wrote: One for you Doc, what would i static time my 1310 to suit the Pulsar dizzy that i have for it , that has been modded by GR, as i do not have a timing light that you can set the advance degrees at,. When i first put it in and give it a run to see what it was like i think i had it set at about 5 degrees . Colin I would try 7-10 degrees static.

Author:	winabbey [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:54 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: We used to tip 2 gals of methyl benzine in the tanks and advance it more. Ah, the good old days. BP stations usually had a 44 gallon drum of methyl benzine and a galvanised 2 gallon jug somewhere on the forecourt. Magnificient aroma from the rear end after topping up (if you know what I mean)! P.S. Anyone know where I can buy some leaded petrol and methyl benzine these days?

Page 1 of 2	All times are UTC + 10 hours
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:04 pm ]
Post subject:
Methyl benzine is aka toluene. Paint thinners...