On a 1275+ build , with mostly weekend track work intended.
Would the engine builders in ausminiland recomend it(strapping that is).

Invest in a set of ARP main studs instead, and ARP rod bolts while you are there.

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Steve

The main reason people break centre main caps is they throw it down in the gears and use the engine as a brake, with too many rpm. Use the brakes instead, they are there for a purpose.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Use thinner lower-half thrust washers, that way there is far less chance for the crank to "work-on" the cap

with heaps more clearance here, the crank "Can" flex ,,, it`s going to anyway,,, & we are letting it flex rather than trying to force it not to by using the cap to stop it,,, or attempt to stop it,,, give it heaps of lower half-thrust cleance & there`s really no need for a strap

take all the thrusting on the upper half,,, on the block ,,, & don`t let the crank push on the cap

this way the much thinner lower half thrusts are basically only holding the upper ones in place

easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I was going to mention that Matt. It is an old trick that your good old Man taught me years ago. It Works well. As a matter of fact later model engine bearings (not mini) with Thrusts as part of the main Bearings do not have thrusts on the cap side of the bearing. This is very important as when a crank flexes it pushes the cap sideways causing bolts to stretch and all sort of damages occur. With no Crank side contact on the cap there is no pushing done.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"