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 Post subject: batt goes flat
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:16 am 
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998cc
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Location: Queensland
ok I replaced alternator with new one and replaced battery with new one as well and I disconnected my sound system and amp and neons so I took it for a drive yesterday and went out this morning and battery is flat any 1 got any idea y dad said I have a leak some were could it be my starter solinoid cause it doesn't always work I have to get out and push the button on it to start it some times


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:25 am 
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Usual source of power leak (apart from stereo unit) is a dud diode in the alternator.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:46 am 
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998cc
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anything else apart from that cause i dont recon it is alternator


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:09 am 
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There's nothing else connected to the battery when all the switches are off, except the alternator.
Unless interior light stays on.
:lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:16 am 
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998cc
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havent got interia light and nah everything is off


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:06 am 
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1275cc
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have you checked with a multimeter that your altenator is charging? Have you checked all the wires are on correctly?

If you have nothing on then there is no way the the battery will just de-charge, especially if its new.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:37 am 
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Come back to some basics.

1) disconnect your new battery and charge it up. If it sits discharged for any period of time it will reduce it's life and may even permanently damage it.

2) either you have a dud battery (yes I see you say it new) or something is draining it.

3) when your battery is charged, put it back in, but before connecting it, pull every fuse, every one of them - sound system the lot.

4) Connect the earth to your battery and If you've an ammeter in your multimeter, connect that between your battery and the cable running to the front. It should read Zero.

5) If it shows some current then as the Doc says, it could be your alternator. Disconnect it (alternator) and test again. If it now shows zero, your alternator is leaky (diode most likely), if it still shows current then there is still something connected. It is un-likely to be a bad wire or the like as rather than being leaky these will just short.

6) Go to your starter solenoid and disconnect all the brown wires (and any others) that are connected to the main battery cable. Check your ammeter. It should now be zero as only the main battery cable is connected.

7) Connect your main battery cable (to the battery) and bring your ammeter up to the sarter solenoid. Check between the main battery terminal and each of the brown wires. They all should be zero, but if any show any current then you need to trace out what is connected to that wire and again disconnect each item to find out where your leaking.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:03 pm 
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998cc
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ok just out fiddling with my car and i wanna double check that i have the wires right on the alternator ok there is a (+) sign and a (aux+) and a (ing) sign all of these have lugs to put the wire onto so what i have done is got a wire from the starter solinoid from the battery side and put that to the + sign on to the alternator then my igniton light wire goes to ing lug but it is active so it turns on my light ? even when the igniton is off so i pulled it off and put it on the aux+ same thing it is active as well so have i hokked this up wrong or is ther something wrong with my alternator ???????????? and when i turn my igniton on the igniton goes out


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:17 pm 
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What model is the new alternator??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:20 pm 
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998cc
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mate said it is a gt alternator if that means anything


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:40 pm 
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If it's a Clubby GT the lamp wire goes on `ind' and the heavy wire(s) go to `+'.
Ignore the `aux+' terminal.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:42 pm 
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998cc
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ok what is the aux+ lug for then


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:43 pm 
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Not used. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:29 pm 
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998cc
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well it is charging cause i just took it for a 10 min drive and turned it off then it started again bit i think i may have fixed the leak have to wait and c what happens


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:41 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 11:52 pm
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Location: Bald Hills, Brisbane
that doesnt mean its charging. buy a multimeter from jaycar/dick smiths (jaycar have one for $10!) and find out for sure. it'l be the best thing you buy. if your not getting around 14v while the car is going, then your "new" alternator aint doing its job (or its wired incorrectly).

by the sounds of it your "new" battery needs charging - not a 10min drive around the block.


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