yea......nasty one....
didn't you have the head off recently? THAT would have been the best time to do it. It might be seized....and need drilling out.....
sorry Duc.....
| ausmini https://www.ausmini.com/forums/ |
|
| Urgent Help needed to remove Tube https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6154 |
Page 1 of 2 |
| Author: | 68matic [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Urgent Help needed to remove Tube |
Hi guys and girls, thing: By Pass tube from block to head top Hex threaded Tube www.angelfire.com/mech/ducho first two pictures i couldnt get it out with a spanner i tried pincing pliers and it collapsed it any ideas on how to remove it? i know if all else fails im gonna have to angle grind away the collapsed and plug it which i'd like to leave to the last resort Thanks in advance |
|
| Author: | J_A_M [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yea......nasty one.... didn't you have the head off recently? THAT would have been the best time to do it. It might be seized....and need drilling out..... sorry Duc.....
|
|
| Author: | 68matic [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yeh it completely slipped my mind when the head was off how would i go about removing it by drilling? ive heard of a method you cut it, and slowly tap it out im really getting anxious
|
|
| Author: | J_A_M [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
oh Duc.....I know EXACTLY how you feel......
Mate, all I know is that when the head is off, if you can't screw it out, drill it out and retap it. Kev might know a way to do it with the head on..... If you have to remove the head, it's not a HUGE job..... You have reminded me to do mine. It is slightly corroded, but since the head is off, I should do it. How much was the insert? |
|
| Author: | 68matic [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
$10 from heritage MG ill give you mine if i dont get to use it
|
|
| Author: | aaron [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think you have two options, 1try to get a ring spanner over the nut and turn it an 1/8th at a time, It's tight in there. You may need to pull the radiator to get enough room. or get a cheap spanner and cut it down to get more room. 2 lop off the rest of the hose bit and get a socket onto it. and do the same. YOu'll need a short rachet for it to work. There tight, as there in water ALL the time. so there corroded in! joy! Patience will be the key... Cheers Aaron |
|
| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Duc, I make brass ones that NEVER rust out.. 
Head has to come off. If the adapter is stuffed I drill it all away then clean the thread out. Never stuffed a head up yet. 
Bring it up and I'll do it while you wait, but I would need to make some adaptors first. 
|
|
| Author: | 68matic [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
thanks guys for the hints i feel much better hey i didnt even say any words starting with F aaron, i couldnt get a ring spanner in there, nor a normal one the horns of the spanner dig into the head ill give the socket a go tonight Doc, ill cut away the tube and will try to chip/drill/tap away the remains the little tube is aluminium, i thought they never rust i guess if its bathing in coolant the protective Aluminium Oxide could dissolve thanks mate |
|
| Author: | gafmo [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yer take the head off and do it on a bench...Fare bloody easier....you will be banging your head against a wall otherwise..then your head will look likemine...and you don't want that 
|
|
| Author: | 68matic [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
socket didnt work ring spanner didnt work rad was out from the start water pump now out hermans sitting there with his guts all over the garage will speak to a friend before taking the next step looks like head will come off cheers boys duc ps. who'd believe it, i didnt even cuss
pps. lets see if i can get him on the road by next next weekend in time for the terrigal cruise |
|
| Author: | Mike [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 4:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
gafmo wrote: Yer take the head off and do it on a bench...Fare bloody easier....you will be banging your head against a wall otherwise..then your head will look likemine...and you don't want that
No Jim yours is more like against a linisher. 68matic - take the head off. Once youve done it a few times and with the radiator already disconnected it only takes like 2 hours each way (unless your extractors missalign, or radiator leaks). The current position of the bypass is the wrong place to do any kind of work - you've got no access, no vision, no angle to apply force and youre bound to strip it even further or fk the thread. |
|
| Author: | 68matic [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
thanks mike dont wanna fk anything up |
|
| Author: | simon k [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
does anyone else tap and block off the bypass altogether? the last couple of motors I did we blocked it off, which makes life much easier. Put a plug in the head, and tap & plug the outlet on the water pump.... no more leaking bypass hoses, no more lining the bastards up when you put the head on etc. etc. the bypass hose is there to let a little bit of hot water stay inside the engine - it bypasses the radiator.... basically keeping the motor hotter, the poms needed it, we don't
anyone else do the same? |
|
| Author: | 68matic [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 6:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
skssgn i really dont know if thats the purpose of it as Doc said once god put it there for a reason so blocking it off might be beneficial for now but i'd prefer to keep it like it is |
|
| Author: | gafmo [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 6:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mike wrote: gafmo wrote: Yer take the head off and do it on a bench...Fare bloody easier....you will be banging your head against a wall otherwise..then your head will look likemine...and you don't want that No Jim yours is more like against a linisher. 68matic - take the head off. Once youve done it a few times and with the radiator already disconnected it only takes like 2 hours each way (unless your extractors missalign, or radiator leaks). The current position of the bypass is the wrong place to do any kind of work - you've got no access, no vision, no angle to apply force and youre bound to strip it even further or fk the thread. I thought thats what I said Linisher 
|
|
| Page 1 of 2 | All times are UTC + 10 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|