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molly's clutch problem
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Author:  andbat [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:31 am ]
Post subject:  molly's clutch problem

having a bit of trouble

symptoms include but are not limited to.

clutch changing between really stiff or really flat (still working as a clutch though)
slight leakage out of hoes that goes into the slave cylinder
fluid level in master cylinder seems fine. through the cap hole i can see it is about 2 cm down from the cap.

any ideas? bout to take of the hoes and check it for blockage.

happened while delivering pizzas yesterday.

Author:  jester99 [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:53 am ]
Post subject: 

I am assuming you may have the tin type master cylinder resevoir. The fluid level needs to be all the way to the top of these. If any lower than about 5mm under the top they can draw air in the system. so make sure the level is all the way full, as much as you can get in it without spilling it.

if the hose is leaking it is possible this may cause a loss of presure and/or air may get in to the system. this may cause an intermittent operation.

i would suggest replacing the hose and bleeding the system. also make sure all the adjustments are spot on. if the adjustment on the clutch lever arm is not right, the slave cylinder changes its movement therefore making the sytem not function correctly.

if you have not go a haynes workshop manual, go and buy one and set the clutch up correctly. its not to hard for most people to do this yourself.

good luck 8)

Author:  andbat [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:27 am ]
Post subject: 

is it possible to bleed a clutch by yourself easily?

Author:  simon k [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 

andbat wrote:
is it possible to bleed a clutch by yourself easily?


yep, you can trickle bleed it, or use a bar between the pedal and the cross-member...


but fix the leaky hose :roll:

Author:  andbat [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:57 am ]
Post subject: 

clutch is bled with a friends help. eels a bit better, still problem.

thinking air may be getting in through leaky hoes. is that possible? what ya'll think?

i am gonna definitely change the hoes.

where can i get one? how much? nothing fancy

okay to keep topping up the master as band aid for pizza delivering tomorrow?

Author:  TheMiniMan [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:58 am ]
Post subject: 

Andrew,,, Once you`ve fitted a new hose, then you can (with the dorr open) have your left foot on the clutch peddle , lean into the engine bay between the door`s window frame & the "A" Pillar,,, & with a long 7?16ths spanner you can reach the slave cyl bleed nipple

best to simply push the peddle down,,, then crack the nipple loose (Just quickly tho) & shut it imediatly

in other words, just a short squirt,,, open shut very fast,,,, do that over & over so each time it just squirts out a tad at a time

so foot on,,, open-shut the nipple,,, then foot off again,,,

foot on again,,, open-shut the nipple quick squirt again,,, foot back off the peddle

foot on again,,, open-shut,,, foot off

got it???

after about 5 to 10 goes at doing that you should be back in business

If you try to leave the nipple open too long, then air can suck back in because there is a spring inside the slave cyl & it will want to push the piston back away & suck air back in,,, so don`t leave the nipple open for long,,, just a quick squirt & shut it off before the clutch arm comes to rest

ok,,, i`m done... anyone can argue about my method all they like,,, but it`s the best way,,, so there!!!

:-) :-) :-) :-)

Author:  ryan [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:24 pm ]
Post subject: 

Like I said earlier today. You really need to fix the leaky hose.

You should be able to get it from brake smart over in north wollongong.

55 Montague St
4226 4911

or here http://www.minisport.com.au/prod149.htm

Not sure if i'm free at all this week. Have a busy week at work. I'll let you know.

Author:  andbat [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:38 pm ]
Post subject: 

thanks for the direction matt. i was doing it all wrong.

did a bit off bleeding then realised that everytime i cleaned the "spilt" fluid off the hoes it would suddenly just be wet again. really bad leak. and small drive to the beach and back must have made it worse.

gonna try and do it all tomoz before uni.
ryan do you know when break smart opens tomorrow in the morning? and do you know what time supercrap opens for the spanner.

what size spanner do i need to get the hoes off? and is it simply just undoing the points at the end of the rubber hose and taking it off. nothing complicated i should know about?

so gonna replace hoes. open nipple. poor in brake fluid. till master is full. close nipple. then go through matt's instructions again to bleed clutch.

sound like a plan?

ok.. BREAK!

Author:  ryan [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:46 pm ]
Post subject: 

I wouldn't have a clue what time they open. I hope they can help you, not sure if it is a specialised part.

From memory you will need a 3/4" for the master end and 5/8" for the slave end. But you may want to check. :wink:

Author:  GT mowog [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 5:40 pm ]
Post subject: 

ryan wrote:
I wouldn't have a clue what time they open. I hope they can help you, not sure if it is a specialised part.

From memory you will need a 3/4" for the master end and 5/8" for the slave end. But you may want to check. :wink:


In a pinch a Front Brake Hose will also get you going, just a little on the long side.....Oh and the spanners are 15/16" for the nut near the master cylinder and either 5/8" or 15 mm for the other end, depending on where it came from......

Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

Don't forget the 7/16" pipe spanner for the nuts on the end of the pipe.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

Morris 1100 wrote:
Don't forget the 7/16" pipe spanner for the nuts on the end of the pipe.

Don't use an open end spanner, it'll bugger the flare nut up, guaranteed.
If you don't have a flare nut spanner, a 7/16 ring spanner with a slot cut in is the next best thing.

Author:  GT mowog [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:39 pm ]
Post subject: 

drmini in aust wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
Don't forget the 7/16" pipe spanner for the nuts on the end of the pipe.

Don't use an open end spanner, it'll bugger the flare nut up, guaranteed.
If you don't have a flare nut spanner, a 7/16 ring spanner with a slot cut in is the next best thing.


PBR actually recommed vice grips :shock:

Author:  DTrain [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:44 pm ]
Post subject: 

leaking hoes can get you into all sorts of trouble :oops:

Author:  andbat [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

now i am just confused

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