is that alot in a mini? i think mine is about 70. seems pretty nippy.

is a 30hp jump alot more like holy god dam oh-my god more?

i seem to see alot of people going around for the 100hp mark.

does it become pretty clonky & lumpy, hard to drive when getting upto that kind of HP?

also i would love to know what mods you did to get you there or over the mark

I have (had) 136hp in my stroker.
Absolute dream to drive... idled at 1500 RPM but that was down to the cam. And it was only the cam that let it produce 136hp.
It's all a trade off.

You've gotta decide what you are going to be using it for.
100hp is perfect for a road car.
Quite achievable, will give you great reliability... a good number to work to.

I can't speak from experience but I went from a 998 with 31bhp to a A+1275 with 45 bhp and that was a holy cr@p moment so I do think an extra 30 in a mini will be a very big gain.
A lot of people have 1360 and 1380's making 60 to 90 odd bhp and those are very well built engines. I think 100 at the wheels for a road car using A series N/A 5 port engines would be a bit of a pig to drive daily.
But as soon as you go for forced induction and cross flow heads then you should get over the 100 mark and still have something sort of smooth to drive around in.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

yes cool, i have been looking into it.

big cams make it pretty lumpy and hard to drive

i would love to ride in a 100hp mini feel the difference.

a re13 cam i think can get 98hp? pretty good form a Std 1275?

i have been considering SCharger for a while now, anyone running one in brisbane? wanna take me for a ride haha

thats good smooth power with a sc?

i know what you mean with the holy crap moment,,, i jumped from a 1100 banger to a rebuilt 1275, was awesome still is!

Please don`t be confused Nick

sooo many people talk about HP as if it were soooo easy to make over 100hp

well it`s not that easy to make over 100hp """AT THE WHEELS""" in a road going mini

"""IF""" someone tells you that they actually have over 100hp """AT THE WHEELS""" in their """ROAD""" mini then it will be a rough, lumpy Full race type engine, most likely running on AV-Gas & probably shouldn`t be on the road anyways

an 100Hp "At The Engine" mini will have approx 75-80-ish (give or take) at the wheels

hence the std cooper "S" having approx 70hp at the engine will have about 45 at the wheels,,, (& that`s a good one)

Turbo &/or supercharged minis are a different kettle of fish,,, they can make good grunt & still be quite smooth-ish

"Torque" (however) is a whole different ball game,,, this is the stuff we really want !!!!!!!!

Power - to- weight ratio is another "easilly" miss-interpreted "feeling"

jump in my hillclimb car & you`ll feel a whole bunch of wonderful things,,, lots of HP (138 at the wheels) also a heap of torque but not dramtic amounts,,, but most importantly you will feel the "Power-to-weight" ratio is brilliant & will make the car feel more powerful than it really is

your wagon will need "Torque",,, It`s a heavy mini ... HP is just a figure worked out from an equation between the torque (Turning power) & the revs per minute

High HP figure """at lower revs""" basically means lots more torque than another engine making the same-ish HP at a higher rev

& also please understand that there are soooo many dynos out there that read way higher than others,,, it`s a big major motha of a pet hate of mine that people can happilly present their HP figure willy-nilly with no other comparison to directly relate it to the "real-world"

be very carefull Nick,,, it`s a very tricky subject that soo many people don`t really understand totally & yet they will tell you they know... Just look at my sig

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

haha ok cool.

well that is why i asked.. i thought 100 hp was a crap load in a mini.

that clears that up. so what is the most important figure we need to know it it at the wheels or flywheel?

i guess the real power.

we generally loose about 20-ish driving the wheels in real life , so whatever people "quote" just ask them is that at the engine or at the wheels ??? & then do the math

but take the figures with a grain of salt Nick,,, soo many like to say they have more than they have,,, funny that hey??? why would anyone say they have less???---> Mopar in America actuallly did that back in the early days to keep the Govt off their back for producing way tooo fast cars,,, weired hey? fancy claiming way less than what you actually have... it doesn`t happen these days,,,

everyone likes to say they have more than 6-inches yeah???

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Theres a lot of other variables. The diff ratio is critical to. A 100 hp at the fly mini with a 2.7 will be totally different to drive compared to one with a 4.6 and 100hp.

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Simplify and add lightness

quite a drop in the gear ratio does play with the figures somewhat

hence why you won`t see a HP dyno run in 5th gear (overdrive) & more commony small engined cars are run up in 3rd gear,,,

It`s all easilly fudged

just take 2 simple things for example--> type pressures & how tight they strap the car down

my Kombi made 175hp , then we loosened the straps & made 180,,, then we pumped the tyres up from 25psi to 40psi & gained anout 8hp,,, then we ran it in 3rd (cause my 4th gear is a .7:1 overdive,,, way taller than most peoples 5th gears) & made another 12hp,,, we fudged the "real-life" figures didn`t we???,,, but hey,,, that`s what everyone is doing on the rollers...

that`s why you`ll find that People like GR would rather figures produced from an engine dyno,,, & then he can directly compare his findings with another mod to see if that mod worked or not,,, keeps the vairables in check

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Yes, You loose heeeaaaps at the wheels - I lost 40hp (~30%) The more Hp you have the more you seem to loose as well.
I drove my friends 180hp KAD and it felt slow compared to mine - but it was smooth and very nice for a road car. Dyno's won't show you lightened engine components/car weight/ diff ratio etc.. which all help make the car accelerate quick.

Is this correct? I mean will a re13 cam alone give a 1275a+ up to 98hp (at the flywheel)?

I was going to run one of these, headwork and LCB's with the single 1 & 3/4 carb.
So if the above is true what do you think I'll end up with at the flywheel?

Cheers,
Steve

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To have a true objective opinion on all things motoring, one must experience a variety of configerations and combinations on a regular basis in an effort to not form an excessive attachment... Oh who am I kidding...

My 1412 with an RE13, Corolla rockers, Vizarded head and an LCB made 113.6 at the flywheel with a single HS6 carby. Torque was a meaty 113lb/ft.
It's pretty easy to get 100 at the crank from a 1275 with this cam and the usual carby change and head work.
Gerg's old 1360 made 102HP at crank I think, and the head was a bog stock 1100S.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There was a tuner up my way that would get more power from your car if you paid more and more money, their best trick was putting the dynos air temp sensor in hot water to raise the HP numbers slightly.

Its great to have the acceleration and performance,but I can tell you from experience that driving in the city with endless traffic lights does start to piss you off after awhile,so you end up having a Mini that you thoroughly enjoy driving on Club days and country roads
I'm not sure how the LS will handle the tight/hilly roads of Tassie later this year,but I'm told there are no cities to worry about

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just a question.. has anyone any thought about improving the power loss some how?

loosing 40hp ATW is so much.. instead of increasing the power, why not fix the power delivery system first?