Alot of people on here have recently bought the cheap alloy radiators off ebay, i also run one in my conversion.

I have the radiator out of the car at the moment and i've given it a flush with the hose, what is the best stuff to run in these? Coolant? Corrosion inhibitor? etc?

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

one of the best "Coolants" in the world is just plain simple """WATER"""

But,,, """Most""" people these days seem to assume that the word "Coolant" is that green stuff you pour into the radiator,,, well the fact is,, that green stuff you pour into the radiator is actually "Mainly" a """CORROSION INHIBITOR"""

it also "Usually" contains some other stuff, like Glycol (a dam good coolant) & a lubrctive of some sort to help lube the water pump sel, & some other chemicals that i have no idea about

so,,, "COOLANT" = water

corrosion inhibiotr is exactly that = inhibits (or helps stop) corrosion

so yes,,, put water in & add some corrosion inhibitor ,,, that`s what should be put into your raditaor

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I have been using a mixture of traditional coolant and water, however I have also been using a product called "Water Wetter" and have dropped approx 5c in track conditions.

We have also used in other cars and had upto 10c cooler, the manufacture claim 15-20c......

Worked for me !

PG

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1964 Grp Nb Cooper S
1976 911 3.6 Circuit Car
1969 911T Grp Sb Historic Racer
2009 LC200 V8 TDI.... 660nm..
2011 Golf VI, TSI

how much are these cheap alloy radiators, i might have to get me one ..?

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

I would use the coolant specified for a Ford Falcon, which also has an alloy head and radiator.
I'd change it and flush the radiator every year or so, unless you want to start cutting the alloy tanks off to clean the cores...

If you were to run plain water, the alloy rad would `do a thermo housing' ie. sacrifice itself to protect the cast iron head and block. Not a good look....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You would think I would know what coolant I used in my XR6.....? I do remember it said on the bottle it was suited for Falcon/XR6 and V6 Crummbodores.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I've used Tectalloy 90 in mine (copper radiator, not alloy) for years and it's spotless...

I changed the water pump last year and aside from a little pitting, the pressed impeller was in pretty good nick, considering how long it had been on there. #1 bore was spotless, no rust whatsoever.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I've just recently put the cheap alloy rad in the Mini with one waiting for my Starlet project.

Would earthing the radiator improve it's resistance to corrosion? I'm no chemist so I have no idea, I've been recommended to do it and have (little wire from radiator cowling mount to body) but I have no idea if it'll do anything.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I would have thought earthing the radiator would improve your chances of electrolysis. As standard they're rubber mounted and electrically isolated from the body, so assuming that's still true and the mounts are in good condition there is zero voltage drop between the coolant and the radiator.

Earth the radiator, and you develop the potential for a voltage drop, which makes for electrolysis.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

$97 when i bought one...

Goes well

ive used Tectaloy Gold (around $18/L bottle) its a concentrate making 15L from the 1L bottle.... Little asian brother in the Blacktown radiator shop swears by it, its the only stuff he uses!

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Hi Do these radiators fit ok. cowling etc

Any mods required.

TA Kiwiinwgtn

Water + dissolved salts + aeration from pumps radiator etc = corrosion.

Better to buy a green inhibited coolant and avoid all the corrosion problems.

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Regards,

Mike
"He who dies with the most toys wins."

Some tiny nicks/cuts in the corners of the cowls -->cause the rads are more "Square" on the corners of the tanks,,, & you`re away

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I got one of these radiators of ebay for $110 and it is absolutely fantastic, my car literally runs at half the temp it used to!

I had one for my mk1 67 deluxe.

It was too "short" so the tanks sat against the inside cowl from the guard was millimetres from the fan. Cowling wouldn't sit on the radiator correctly and would've needed cuts to fit & new holes drilled.

Took the car to Glen Carpenter to get a new "normal" rad.

But, I did get it fitted (so I could get to Glen's) and it ran very cool. With less coolant. (about 600mL to 1L) than a normal coolant refil would be for me with the older rad. If the inside guard cowl wasn't there, I'd think I would have adjusted it to fit properly.

Cheers,
Mark.