Ausmini
It is currently Sat Aug 09, 2025 3:33 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 26 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:33 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:57 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Panania
Was driving my mum to the airport this morning, no problems. On the way home, the mini started coughing and spluttering under load.
I pulled over and checked to see if there was anything obvious. No leaks that I could see.
I pulled the spark plugs out and found that the condition of cylinder 1 and 2 were vastly different from 3 and 4. I have just put in new plugs last week, and took the mini for a solid drive yesterday down the royal national park without any issues.

Image


The cleanest plugs are 1 and 2. usually they are quite black.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I am running a 45 dcoe weber on what I believe to be a 1380 (that was what it was registered as whe I bought it) elecvtric fuel pump, duel tanks...



Things I am thinking it could be at the moment is fuel starvation or head gasket...... Please any help would be appreciated.Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:46 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Check the idle jets, emulsion tubes, main jets and air correctors are the same in both barrels.
I did a 1293 motor up for my wife's S replica that had used a 45 Weber, #1 & #2 pistons were pock marked like the moon from running lean. #3 & #4 were OK. :lol:
Carby had been sold but I bet the jetting was crook as stated.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:56 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:57 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Panania
Doc, Thanks for the response... how do I check the idle jets, emulsion tubes, main jets and air correctors.

I haven't worked with webers before. If I start pulling things off, how do I get it back to running condition?

It was running fine for a few weeks. The plugs were all identical in terms of colour before this morning... It was running a little rich (ie dark and black) then while driving this morning something changed.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:00 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 4:33 pm
Posts: 1039
Location: wollongong
im also having this problem, it starts after a while of pumping accelorator and choke out and sounds alright when idleing but as soon as you let the clutch out it loses all power and backfires.

its an 998 bored .080", 266 cam, and 1-1/2" su. can somebody give me any indication to what the problem would be.

thanks,

Leighton

_________________
1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:07 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Turns01 wrote:
Doc, Thanks for the response... how do I check the idle jets, emulsion tubes, main jets and air correctors.

I haven't worked with webers before. If I start pulling things off, how do I get it back to running condition?

It was running fine for a few weeks. The plugs were all identical in terms of colour before this morning... It was running a little rich (ie dark and black) then while driving this morning something changed.


Take the round jet cover off the top. Inside there are 2 emulsion tube assys (at front) with 2 idle jet assys (behind).
Make sure L and R of each pair have the same numbers.
Air jets are on top of emulsion tubes, main jets at bottom.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:20 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:57 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Panania
Doc the numbers are the same:

F2 - 180

and

45 F9

were the numbers on the tube/screw things.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:00 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:57 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Panania
I have had a look a the distributor and leads to make sure spark is getting through.

While the engine was running i pulled the lead off plug 1. There was little change to idle and spark was getting through. When I pulled lead off number 2 plug, idle reduced dramatically almost to the point of stall. cylinder 3 was similar to 2 and cylinder 4 was similar to cylinder 1.

So to test the theory, I pulled 1 and 4 off together and there was little change. I pulled 2 and 3 off and the engine stalled.

Is this normal?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:05 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Turns01 wrote:
Doc the numbers are the same:

F2 - 180

and

45 F9

were the numbers on the tube/screw things.

180 is the air correctors. Did you check the numbers on the main jets at bottom of the emulsion tubes??

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:23 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:57 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Panania
Doc,

Image

From top to bottom the markings are 170 - F2 - 180. the bottom number is on the hexagonal screw in part.

Thanks for your help.

Simon


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:46 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
OK so the mains are 170.
Sounds somewhere near the money (if it has 36 choke tubes in it).

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 2:13 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:57 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Panania
Thanks Doc.

Well that eliminates the fuel issues I thought might be causing the missing. Now I am led to believe it could be a head gasket. Might look at pulling the head off tomorrow. Unless it could be something else....

What are the best type of head gaskets and where do I get 'em? Karcraft?

Cheers,
Simon


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 2:50 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
I`d be checking that the manifold hasn`t come loose from the cyl head , or the weber hasn`t come loose from the manifold etc first

& the jets may be blocked so blow some compressed air through them (Maje sure you hang onto them tight tho,,, don`t want them shooting off into the garden or across the road etc) or even try some fues wire (or similar) through them to make sure they`re clear

do a compression test & check your rocker clearances too

^ Leighton,,, maybe you have stuffed condensor &/or points

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:12 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Turns01 wrote:
Thanks Doc.

Well that eliminates the fuel issues I thought might be causing the missing. Now I am led to believe it could be a head gasket. Might look at pulling the head off tomorrow. Unless it could be something else....

What are the best type of head gaskets and where do I get 'em? Karcraft?

Cheers,
Simon

IMO the best 1275 gasket available at the moment (GT m will shoot me down though) is the BK450, from Karcraft.
It's my (and TheMiniMan's) favourite, no correspondence will be entered into.:mrgreen:

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:20 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
here here

or there there

whatever the case (of beer) be
:lol:
:lol:
:lol:

best check the gear-shift mechanisim, just in case that`s what`s caused the problem

ok,,, i`ll stop now

hey at least the 3 of us (GTWoggsy, The Doc & Moi) know we`re all joking & friendly about it too hey??? Me thinks the 3 of us are showing our age & maturity don`t you think?

(stoopid remote shifts & copper head gaskets)

:-)

am not,,, are too,,, am not ,,, are too

:-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 4:32 pm 
Offline
Yay For Hay!
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
Posts: 15912
Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
check the compression before you take the head off....


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 26 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 81 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

cron

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.