Split the engine and box tonight with mixed results. just had a couple of questions with regards to what i found in the gearbox.

when i removed the diff i found the output shaft flanges were badly worn and the bushes in the output shaft housing were buggered badly and this combined i beleive caused the worn rubber uni joints to flog against the gearbox housing under load.

i was certain this was the only cause of the grinding noises i heard. now im not so sure.

there is quite a bit of metal floating around inside this gearbox and im no expert but the first and second gear syncros looks pretty worn. the box does grind on the odd occasion in first and sometimes in forth if you shift to quick but otherwise the box was performaing well until the grinding noise just the other week, which prompted me to remove it from daily driving.

whats your opinions guys. should i clean it out and just refit it with new gaskets and seals, repair the output shafts & bushes etc, and pray the box will go for a few years.

or should i wait, save up and recon the gearbox.

_________________
'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

sorry but i doubt anyone where will give you any experienced mini gearbox information or diagnosis from a photo of it

you`d need to have it checked out thoroughly , as it take it apart & make sure everythiung is done right when (or as) it goes back together

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

As Matt says - it's nigh on impossible to tell that way

Select a gear and push the opposite baulk ring onto it's cone and measure the gap left; this gives a impression about the nick of the baulk rings. Next would be to visualy check the 'doog teeth' on the gears for damage. If they'r 'round', they'r f-ed.

Of course this does not show any internal damage of the mainshaft, bearings etc.

At the very least I would remove the layshaft/gear to check for wear. And strip the differential and check for wear (I've only ever seen one diff without too much wear (for my likings, that is!!)

Cheers,
Jan

_________________
No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

I would pull the whole thing apart. It looks like Mini-K/early Clubby remote.

As a guide to cost, for the Mini-K one I did recently for Morris 1100 the parts bill alone was nearly $500.
This did NOT include new synchro rings- as I clearanced 4 of his good ones and fitted them back in. Nor did it include selector forks as those were both good.
But all bearings were replaced, layshaft, diff pin, diff planet gears, side cover bushes, etc.
Labour was extra.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for your feedback. yeh i didnt expect a diagnosis just an opinion on if you thought the metal filings were something that would usually be looked upon as "thats stuffed better rebuild the box" type scenario.

or if some metal filings were normally found in a gearbox of this mileage and age etc etc.

i am trying to keep costs to a minimum as this isnt a show car just a daily driver.

i did plan on buidling a mickey mouse 1275 engine and box over the comming 12-18 months but seeing as this has reared its ugly head early i have to make a decision shortly, if i rebuild or just clean it up and refit it.

i have priced a rebuilt exchange box and have an idea of what a full reconditioned box will cost, i am just weighing up the pro's and con's etc.

thanks again for your feedback guys. the ausmini community is extremely helpful.

Jason

_________________
'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

Judging from the lock-washer on the diff pinion, someone has previously had a go at it.

As others have said, while its out, you may as well do a full recon.

That is the only way to get peace of mind and blissful sleeps.

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I can see the selector shaft where it coming into the box has been rubbing on the pinion gear retaining nut, not sure why, perhaps it is lose as the lock washer does not look bent over.

as all the boys have mentioend complete strip and build for peace of mind.

they are not that hard but a bit exy if you do the lot.

_________________


100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

That would explain why there is such a wide unmeshed witness on the pinion...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Nah,,, i`d say that the double row bearing has collapsed & the whole mainshaft assy is shifting side to side

with all the meatl in the bottom of the box i`d say it`s really stuffed & will need chunks of things replaced deep inside

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Very possible

I'd also say who ever fitted the box to the block uses too much sealant

_________________


100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

fixed one of the Pics

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

sweet, now thats the sort of thing i wanted to hear. some feedback on what you guys may be able to visually see from these pics and your opinions on what your experience may tell you.

right well when i put your feedback together with the fact there is plenty of wear and a fair amount of metal filings floating around, i am sure this box is very worn out.

looks like i will have to wait. "have patience grasshopper" yes master

_________________
'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW