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 Post subject: Clutching at straws
PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:40 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2004 8:41 am
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Location: Grays Point
Hey All

Have been absent from here for a while!!

I have to change the clutch tomorrow - have never done it before. Any tips / suggestions woud be appreciated!!

Thanks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 1:42 am 
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1360cc
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have you got a flywheel puller?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:09 am 
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1360cc
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Bob, I stripped 2 motors recently, and removing the clutch assembly on both was part of it.

you WILL need a flywheel puller, and 1 1/2" socket. I can lend you the socket, but I borrowed a puller.

Easy enough job, but there aint much room to work with, when working with the motor IN the car.... :?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:13 am 
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1098cc
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
I've got a BMC Handmade Puller if anyone wants to grab it to make a copy...

Thick Plate, threaded in the centre, three holes with threaded rod in it !

It works a treat though, was made by a BMC worker who was sick of the "Crappy" Bmc "Special Tool"

J

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 Post subject: Re: Clutching at straws
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 2:32 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
MrBob wrote:
Hey All

Have been absent from here for a while!!

I have to change the clutch tomorrow - have never done it before. Any tips / suggestions woud be appreciated!!

Thanks.


Get someone else to do it, then drink beer and commiserate with them after they finish.

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illegal, immoral or fattening.


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 Post subject: Re: Clutching at straws
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:56 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Get someone else to do it, then drink beer and commiserate with them after they finish...

Try that first Bob!!

There is also a thread just recently thjat went into clutch set up that should be of interest

Hint of the Week:

when removing flywheel with a puller, tighten until it first binds, then tap the flywheel firmly through the starter moter hole with a suitable non-marking device (engineers hammer wooden handle end).

Keep away from the flywheel as they usually let go with a bang :!:

Put something soft behind the flywheel to "catch" it and the puller when it all goes bang and falls in a heap....try not to do it on the end of a bench for this reason unless you like chasing wheels around the concrete or you have a good catching system in place.

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 Post subject: Re: Clutching at straws
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:35 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
Get someone else to do it, then drink beer and commiserate with them after they finish...

Try that first Bob!!

There is also a thread just recently thjat went into clutch set up that should be of interest

Hint of the Week:

when removing flywheel with a puller, tighten until it first binds, then tap the flywheel firmly through the starter moter hole with a suitable non-marking device (engineers hammer wooden handle end).

Keep away from the flywheel as they usually let go with a bang :!:

Put something soft behind the flywheel to "catch" it and the puller when it all goes bang and falls in a heap....try not to do it on the end of a bench for this reason unless you like chasing wheels around the concrete or you have a good catching system in place.

If you have a decent (read... bigass!) puller that step is not necessary.
It's not a real good idea to belt cast iron flywheels off, particularly if using a steel drift or pipe like some do. Chong gave me one to machine (lighten) the other day, I won't touch it, it looks sooo bad. Cast iron is brittle stuff, the bruising this one got it might have cracks, and could let go at high rpm.
I'll find him another... :wink:

ps. the backplate was all bruised too, and so NFG for a rev.. they are cast iron too. :cry:

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 Post subject: Re: Clutching at straws
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:17 pm 
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1360cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
9YaTaH wrote:
when removing flywheel with a puller, tighten until it first binds, then tap the flywheel firmly through the starter moter hole with a suitable non-marking device (engineers hammer wooden handle end).


If you have a decent (read... bigass!) puller that step is not necessary.
It's not a real good idea to belt cast iron flywheels off, particularly if using a steel drift or pipe like some do. Chong gave me one to machine (lighten) the other day, I won't touch it, it looks sooo bad. Cast iron is brittle stuff, the bruising this one got it might have cracks, and could let go at high rpm.
I'll find him another... :wink:

ps. the backplate was all bruised too, and so NFG for a rev.. they are cast iron too. :cry:


Yep...definatley no bashing....I mean one solid tap with some good hard wood at right angles to the back face of the flywheel....and only when you come to that point with the puller where you think ....hmmmm...a quarter more turn and I am going to strip something!! :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:15 pm 
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I saw a new Sykes Pickavant flywheel puller the other day, supposed to be good- it looked a toy next to mine, which is 3/4" plate with a 1" UNF Grade 8 bolt in it & the H/T nut welded onto the plate. :P
It's been pulling Mini flywheels since 1966... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:28 pm 
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yup it even did my flywheel
makka

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 11:11 pm 
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Have put the job off until tomorrow morning. I have some help lined up, and have been given instructions on how to start. Does anyone know where i could get some very basic machining done tomorrow morning in a hurry if needed??

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 6:15 am 
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Graham Russell maybe, he usually works Saturdays. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 7:09 am 
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Location: Rakaia, NZ
One trick is to make sure the engine is at TDC, otherwise the U washer can drop off the crankshaft and lock/jam everything up making it a beeatch to get flywheel off from there! Good luck.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 7:15 am 
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ClubmanGT wrote:
One trick is to make sure the engine is at TDC, otherwise the U washer can drop off the crankshaft and lock/jam everything up making it a beeatch to get flywheel off from there! Good luck.

That's true... for the real early cars that had an oil seal in the flywheel. I know it's in the shop manuals still, but... there's now nothing inside the flywheel for it to jam. Since 1963/4... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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