Now that I've finished panel work & painting on my Mk 1 project bodyshell (pics to come soon), I was thinking of pumping some jizz into the sills (maybe drill a few small holes from the inside) to keep any future rust at bay.

Anyone ever done this sort of thing & can recommend a product?

I think its something our pommy friends do quite often.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I used Valvoline Tectyl years ago on my Valiant in the doors, it seemed to work OK.
Fish oil is good too, but the cheapo spray can stuff is too thin. Buy a tin of the real stuff and stick it in yer gun.
It was the only thing that stopped my rebuilt Fiat 124 Sport from dissolving like my previous new one did.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I always use fish oil, that reeking gunge moves around for weeks and eventually sets like resin. I did the same, although I used the holes used to fasten the kick plate down for the forward half as well as the seat belt mounting hole, and the subframe bolt holes at the rear.
I'm told there's better products than fish oil out there however. I'm not sure what they offfer, maybe less fish...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The Poms used to always talk about Waxoyl in the classic car mags. Years ago when I tried to source it in Aus the only place that stocked it was RS Components. I've just searched their site and they still stock it. I haven't checked to see if anyone else stocks it.

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... erm=waxoyl

my local smash repair supplies shop sells it (or an equivalent), I squirted a heap into my RH sill & door jamb after I replaced it...

came with a long bendy tube you attach to the nozzle, and theres a nubble thingy on the end that makes it spray out in a fan

I have heard it said that Waxoyl doesn't like high temperatures. Guys in the states on the MM forum complained that on their UK restored Minis it ran out of everywhere when they got hot (100F or so) weather.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My vote is for Valvoline Tectyl 506 for the non-smelly option. You can buy it in cans from Repco/Super Cheap but it does not come with any tube or nozzle. Drill a series of holes (~10mm) along the sill and spray the wax/rust stuff in - go for gold and try and cover every internal surface. Get rubber grommets (with some sealant for water tightness) to plug up the holes. Repeat the application once every 1-2 years depending on how much weather it's exposed to.

I'd love to know where to get those fan nozzles from as that would make the application easier.

I've been into Tint-A-Car a few times and I'm pretty sure they use Tectyl 506 for their anti-rust product as it looks and smells the same as the canned stuff. You could take it to them and get it done?

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

PPC, the same people that do POR15, do an oil. It's called SW 2 protective oil.

I've got a can of it in the shed but haven't used it yet. I'll be filling my sills with it after my build. I'll let you all know how its going in about 10 yrs time.

I have seen odour free fish oil. Probably just a synthetic version of the real stuff. Dont know how well it works.

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Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

I have some of that too - says it's 'deodorised', so just non-smelly fish oil. It's not completely pleasant on the nose, but not bad

It will sound totally povo because most people only ever associate this brand with supersteap auto but it is very good and used by a lot of panel shops.

http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?it ... page_num=1

These guys aren't half bad at what they do, and best part is ITS ACTUALY CHEAP

I normally load it into a squirty bottle so that I can adjust the spray pattern down to a fine point for those hard to reach places.

I have used it, and it works as described.

You could run it thru a spray gun, but I reckon thats over kill and besides which its easier to move a little squirty bottle around with no hoses attached to it!!

<edit> and when you're done, you can just leave it in the squirty bottle without feeling guilty for not cleaning it out 40 times

I think my car dribbled Tectyl out of it for months after I went to town on it!!!! I pumped it full of the stuff!!!! No signs of rust 9 years on.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Last time I used some I got an old soda syphon (without the gas) and rigged it up with micro watering nozzles on the black tube. I oversized the nozzle a touch so it would neatly spray the oil in a good fan.

The tube was a couple of metres long. It was to rustproof the chassis on an AP6 (1965) valiant ute my dad had.

I think I pressurised the syphon with a bike pump. A cheapie pump up garden sprayer might be the go here - less mucking around.

I wouldn't drill a million holes. With a long tube you can go in from one end through a hole you drill, paint and grommet closed for the purpose.

Hope this helps.

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

Hahahaha, I really like that idea!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Thanks everyone for the very useful replies.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.