ausmini :: View topic - MiniMatic hydro front subframe convert to rubber cone info?

You'll need;-

Donuts (of course),
Trumpets, but I'd very stroongly recommend Hi-los,
Should change the top arms, but not 100% necessary,
Shocks and mounts,
Dry type Bump Stop.

First pull the hydro subframe to apart. In the towers where the hydro bag goes, there is a bayonet type arangement. That will stop the Donut from seating flat, you will need to remove it. A long (12") cold chisel or an old big screw driver might do it. Careful not to remove the locating ring for the donut, just take your time.

After that, re-assemble as you would a dry subframe, however the tower tops are set 1/4" higher on the hydro subframe, so the donuts will also be higher and therefore the assembled result will cause the car to sit too low. Enter the Hi-los to sort this.

You can retain the Hydro top arms, but because of the way they are drilled, the ride will be considerably stiffer, which you may not like. If you do use these arms, you'll need to drill them (3/8") for the shock mount. The hole is there but too small.

When you put the subframe in to the car, th normal dry subframe uses a 1/4" spacer on the tower top. Because the hydro subframe is 1/4" taller to start with, don't put this spacer in.

That's about all there is to it.

Author:	74snail [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:13 pm ]
Post subject:	MiniMatic hydro front subframe convert to rubber cone info?
MiniMatic hydro front subframe converted to rubber cone , anyone with some information on the conversion ? The project is my Clubman solid side van which is getting a 1275 auto from a Morris Nomad , I have now got a MiniMatic hydro front subframe its just the process now to convert it, so any assistance/ information would be greatly appreciated .

Author:	GT mowog [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:36 pm ]
Post subject:
You'll need;- Donuts (of course), Trumpets, but I'd very stroongly recommend Hi-los, Should change the top arms, but not 100% necessary, Shocks and mounts, Dry type Bump Stop. First pull the hydro subframe to apart. In the towers where the hydro bag goes, there is a bayonet type arangement. That will stop the Donut from seating flat, you will need to remove it. A long (12") cold chisel or an old big screw driver might do it. Careful not to remove the locating ring for the donut, just take your time. After that, re-assemble as you would a dry subframe, however the tower tops are set 1/4" higher on the hydro subframe, so the donuts will also be higher and therefore the assembled result will cause the car to sit too low. Enter the Hi-los to sort this. You can retain the Hydro top arms, but because of the way they are drilled, the ride will be considerably stiffer, which you may not like. If you do use these arms, you'll need to drill them (3/8") for the shock mount. The hole is there but too small. When you put the subframe in to the car, th normal dry subframe uses a 1/4" spacer on the tower top. Because the hydro subframe is 1/4" taller to start with, don't put this spacer in. That's about all there is to it.

Author:	74snail [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:01 pm ]
Post subject:
GT mowog wrote: You'll need;- Donuts (of course), Trumpets, but I'd very stroongly recommend Hi-los, Should change the top arms, but not 100% necessary, Shocks and mounts, Dry type Bump Stop. First pull the hydro subframe to apart. In the towers where the hydro bag goes, there is a bayonet type arangement. That will stop the Donut from seating flat, you will need to remove it. A long (12") cold chisel or an old big screw driver might do it. Careful not to remove the locating ring for the donut, just take your time. After that, re-assemble as you would a dry subframe, however the tower tops are set 1/4" higher on the hydro subframe, so the donuts will also be higher and therefore the assembled result will cause the car to sit too low. Enter the Hi-los to sort this. You can retain the Hydro top arms, but because of the way they are drilled, the ride will be considerably stiffer, which you may not like. If you do use these arms, you'll need to drill them (3/8") for the shock mount. The hole is there but too small. When you put the subframe in to the car, th normal dry subframe uses a 1/4" spacer on the tower top. Because the hydro subframe is 1/4" taller to start with, don't put this spacer in. That's about all there is to it. Awesome , thanks for that , now the next question is, later on I might fit the Gaz coilover kit http://www.minispeed.co.uk/content/gaz- ... ront-units , there shouldnt be a problem fitting them from what you have described, anything I should keep in mind ? .

Author:	GT mowog [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:
No, they'll go on OK, but I would have to ask why would you want to fit them? May not be a good idea for a roady, the shocks are good, just probably not so the coil springs.

Author:	drmini in aust [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:13 pm ]
Post subject:
Meh.. I would make the van hydro, with comp rear bumpstops (aka Aeon rubber springs). Then, it might ride civilised.

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Author:	GT mowog [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:22 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: Meh.. I would make the van hydro, with comp rear bumpstops (aka Aeon rubber springs). Then, it might ride civilised. Actually that would be a much better way to go

Author:	74snail [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:24 pm ]
Post subject:
GT mowog wrote: No, they'll go on OK, but I would have to ask why would you want to fit them? May not be a good idea for a roady, the shocks are good, just probably not so the coil springs. So they would be too stiff ( as in tarmac racing stiff ) or too stiff for a road car but OK for one that going to get ( a bit ) of hate/ use As you described, if I retain the hydro top arms my ride will be stiffer , so if I fit the Gaz coilover kit I will be shaken to pieces ? So is the coilover kit with hydro top arms a racing only conversion ? Van is a 77 Leyland Mini so no existing hydro as per the Doc's suggestion Me personally I would be happy enough with rubber cones and good quality oil shocks ( no not gas ) .

Author:	74snail [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:50 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: Hydro would be not hard to do, I'll do it to my 77 van one day unless somebody (please!!) buys it first. Just need to make some longer pipes up, and route em. Mr G this a project I want to keep as simple as possible, the MiniMatic hydro front subframe became available and although it will require conversion its not too much to do, the whole project is aimed at being registered and on the road as quickly as possible, it wont even be painted , just a coat of Red Oxide inside and out to make it look neat and tidy, the 1275 auto from the Morris Nomad will be dropped straight in as it works fine ( we might even use the radiator ) so if the hydro top arms and a front coilover kit is a racing only mod , I won't do it, I,ll just stick to rubber cones and oil shocks .

Author:	GT mowog [ Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:15 am ]
Post subject:
Ride quality / characteristics is always a personal choice. Personally I feel that Hydro Top Arms with a dry set up is about as stiff as you might want to go for road use, but if it were a daily, I don't think I'd put up with it. I did have a Cooper S like this a few years ago and it was fun, but after a few months I found I was avoiding driving it because of that. While it is really not the same, you can get a silimar effect with the standard (dry arms) and adjustable shocks. Wind them up as stiff as they'll go an see if you like it. Using the Hydro arms would be stiffer than that. But to run coil overs with even dry top arms for the street IMO way too stiff. I really don't think it would be too complex a job to convert to full hydro, no more so than the route you are thinking about. A mate of mine had a Factory Clubman GT Van (yes it was factory) and it was on Hydro. It rode very well, handled great, just had to watch how much weight you put in the back, but even that can be easily overcome.

Author:	bnicho [ Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:15 am ]
Post subject:
I've done this conversion for my Moke. I just bent the little tabs inside the tower out of the way so the donut would seat properly. I used the hydro bumpstops fitted onto some dry top arms (dry ones fit on the subframe). I had to drill the bumpstop holes larger so the top arm shock bolt would fit through. I used Hi-Los and new cones. A dead easy conversion. GT Mowog, a factory Clubman GT van is a pretty big claim!! I'd want to see a lot of evidence for that claim. Does it still exist? If it is really a factory car, then Watto would probably be interested in doing a story on it. Cheers,

Author:	ALPINE MOKE [ Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:01 pm ]
Post subject:	auto subframes
Why not use a rover mini auto subframe. It saves a lot of stuffing about.

Author:	74snail [ Tue Apr 20, 2010 5:30 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: auto subframes
ALPINE MOKE wrote: Why not use a rover mini auto subframe. It saves a lot of stuffing about. I have got a Rover auto front subframe but prefer to use a MiniMatic one , it just happens that I got hold of a hydro one so I,ll just use it .

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