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 Post subject: Gearbox advice
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:32 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:13 am
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Location: Glenroy, Melbourne
Hi guys,

The engine and gearbox are out of my car and Im not sure what to do.

When I last drove the car they both seemed to be working fine but I decided I'd get them both rebuilt while they were out.

A mate came over on Sunday and said why spend all that money, I'd just give the gearbox a good clean out and put it back in. If it was working fine when you tok it out why touch it.

That then got me thinking.....................

I'd be interested in peoples, opinions / advice.

Cheers
Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:59 pm 
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If you have the motor off the box I would at least pull the cluster gear and layshaft out of it to check shaft wear, which is common.
You can get an idea how much wear is on the synchros whilst it's together, but if it was my box I'd pull the mainshaft and gears out and check it all properly.

Be aware that fixing boxes properly costs $500-800 just for parts, if it's done a lot of miles.

If you don't want to strip it to clean, I find the best method is to slosh diesel fuel around in there and tip it out. Best done with the cluster gear out for access. Don't hose it...
Bearings won't rust if you use diesel, but if you use kero, they can.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:03 pm 
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If you hav the cash, or if you upgraded the engine while it was I would be doing it. It was alright with a tired engine but a freshly rebuilt unit might be a different story.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:09 pm 
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They not that hard to pull down and then re-build again and at the worst if that was all you did, just to be sure that it was OK, then you'd be up for just a set of gaskets (less than $30 retail).

Depending on the type of gearbox, the engine that was driving it and driving styles there usually is somethings that need doing like layshaft, 2nd gear baulk ring, 1st to 3rd motionshaft bearing, 1st / 2nd gear selector fork, diff etc, so I suggest while it's out, have a proper look. There are some bearings that if caught in time (if thwy are failing) could save the cost of a very expensive rebuild.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:40 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:13 am
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Location: Glenroy, Melbourne
Im not bad on the tools but gearboxes have always scared me.

Is this something I could tackle at home with a general selection of tools or is there a bunch of specilist tools required?

Cheers
Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:27 pm 
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PM Mick, he did his gearbox a couple of months ago and pointed me to a very detailed how to online. Can't seem to find it at the moment though.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:37 pm 
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Give it a go. There's nothing you can't do at home.

There a few tricks because things are tight in there but give the forum a yell if you get stuck. Most of the tricks are in the Haynes manual anyway.

I'd be changing some of those small rollers especially the one on the first motion shaft, might save you a costly mainshaft replacement one day.

Pete


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 4:02 pm 
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If the mainshaft nose is damaged I can reclaim it 2 ways:
1. machine it down to 10mm dia and press fit a d14x10 bearing inner ring on there.
or,
2. machine the shoulder behind the nose down to 15mm, and press fit a d18x15 bearing inner ring on. This suits the late 18T 1st motion shaft as used on the UK 1275GT. With a 22G1040 cluster gear, you get Cooper S ratios.

Cost to do this, $75 including express post.
Lots cheaper than a new shaft.......

If these bearing rings ever wear (they are ballrace steel, so unlikely) they can be replaced cheaply.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:06 pm 
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Dave68Mini wrote:
Im not bad on the tools but gearboxes have always scared me.

Is this something I could tackle at home with a general selection of tools or is there a bunch of specilist tools required?

Cheers
Dave


It is a job you could do at home, but there are some tools that you'll need, in particular a 1 1/2" Deep Dish Socket and a 3/4" drive Ratchet of similar. At worse, you can hire these from Kennards.

You'll also need a pair of small external circlip plyers, a medium / large pair of external circlip plyers, a long brass drift.

<EDIT> There are more 'special' tools you could use, but the above will get the job done.

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Last edited by GT mowog on Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:19 pm 
While year at it bung in a 5th gear :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:34 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 11:52 pm
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Location: Bald Hills, Brisbane
is this the one your talking about?

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=9808


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:32 pm 
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I would inspect the differential closely too! ;) Or just rebuild it with bushed planet gears & upgraded pin. I found the diff is almost always worn considerably on units with some mileage.

Would be a shame to have a rebuild box & engine destroyed by a fubard diff :)

Cheers,
Jan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:03 pm 
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998cc
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I think you may be in the position i was in just a few weeks ago. 8)

i had just removed my engine and box, and was trying to keep costs as low as possible, thinking that the gearbox wasnt grinding or crunching and only the bolt on bits were buggered and i would get away with cleaning the box, repairing the oil leaks, and refitting the whole shebang!

well i can tell you there aint no way to cheat it. if you have the engine and box out, and you are separating the engine and box, definatley rebuild the gearbox. at least have a good look at it and make sure you are not fitting a worn box back in with your engine, that could cause swarf or metal filings to flow through your engine at a later date.

i have quite a bit of experience on the tools aswell but i decided to have someone else do the box for me.

because the engine and box share the same oil, metal filings and the like, what goes around, comes round, literally!

keep in mind the more you look at, the more you will find to replace. be prepared, if your not sure, take it to a mini specialist.

once you have the engine and box apart, you may have a better idea of what you may expect.

good luck 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:25 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:13 am
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Location: Glenroy, Melbourne
Thanks for the input everyone.

Just when i was getting all excited, you've put me back in my box Jester99.

If you dont mind me asking how much did it cost to get yours sorted out?

I've been told about 5k for a good engine and box rebuild.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:38 pm 
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sorry dave68mini i didnt mean to come across as rude. i spent much time trying to get around doing a whole shebang, and after consulting with many people and taking the fantastic advice from the ausmini forum, i came to the decision that i had to accept reality and do it properly.

cutting corners when it comes to mini engines and gearboxes is at high risk of a failure in a short period of time.

i sent my gearbox to lincon at parts and panels in islington NSW. he has been great to deal with and is doing his best to keep costs as low as he can. sending him my gearbox meant that he could use as much as he could from it, and replace only what was needed to bring it back to a good opertaing unit that would last.

i have heard from a few people parts and panels have lots of used gearboxes and a lot of new parts stock, so they are in a good position to be able to source good used parts, mixed with new parts where needed, and assemble one good box at a cost effective price.

lincon is hoping to finish my box this week and is at this point stating that the price will be around $1000. plus or minus a little.

give him a call and discuss some options.

there are lots of mini specialists around though aswell, try someone close to you and get some quotes.

you will more than likley need to take your engine or box to the person quoting on it, so they can have a real look at whats required to do the job.

im in brisbane, and after shopping around a little i decided to send the box to parts and panels. i prefer usually to use local companies as i am a big supporter of keeping your local guys in business, but i origonally had the mindset that i could do this on the cheap.

as i said already, you cant cut corners with these really.

its possible you may be very lucky, remove the box, find no metal filings and everything is sweet as. clean it out and put it back in, but there is no garuntee that it will last, or that you may end up having to remove the whole engine and gearbox again within a short time.

i ended up deciding that if i had it all apart, i might as well do it properly, and do it once! that way when i put my pride and joy back on the road, it will go for many years, and wont stop for something small or silly that i didnt do when i had it apart.

just remember that this is all just advice to. do some ringing around, do some research, read up heaps and take as much feedback from ausmini as you can and make a decision from there.

it comes down to how much money you have well dave68mini.

im just trying to help with advice, speaking as someone who just tried to keep the costs down and got caught out! :lol:

hope this helps. good luck man 8)

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