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| Clutch Slip now under hard acceleration https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6269 |
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| Author: | sg [ Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Clutch Slip now under hard acceleration |
Ok, next question of the night, changed the settings on the 45 Weber (different main and idle jet... all is sweet now, no spitting under light acceleration) this arvo....... OMFG, the power and torque difference is amazing (but having 2 x 1" 1/4's before is a big step up......... The problem is that now under acceleration the clutch is slipping big time  . Is this just an adjustment setting via the stop on the side of the engine, or changing of the spring to something stronger 
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| Author: | kazjim [ Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:22 pm ] |
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Ahhh, welcome to the world of increasing Clamping force..... 
does it get worse the longer you drive ? - does for me, clutch plate heats up and "gasses" (just like a brake shoe/pad) then it just slips... Time for an Orange diaphragm for me.... Which diaphragm are you running ? - a Brown i bet... go for a "Blue" Borg and Beck (its the Cooper "S" one....) diaphragm and new plate..... the scale (as far as i remember) is Brown - 850/998/1275 stocko Blue - Cooper "S" Orange - Cooper "S" Competition Grey - Cooper "S" Rally "Double-Grey" - Extreme Competition / Rally / Drag (read - NASTY....) J |
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| Author: | J_A_M [ Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:05 pm ] |
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start Slidey up, put him in 4th, then drop the clutch as if you were trying to take off quick.....if he slips, itch clutch wear, if he stalls, clutch is OK. I learnt that one aaaaages ago when I bought a dodgy car from a car yard.....  with warranty that was good for toilet paper only.
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:17 pm ] |
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A Cooper S blue dot one handled all the power my 1310 could throw at it.. but the new 1360 has an orange one, just in case.. If it's a blue dot and slipping, maybe the installed height of the clutch is wrong, ie the diaphragm spring is not flat when assembled. There is a thread in Mods on this problem. Or if you're lucky, it might be arm stop adjustment. There should be ~20-25mm free play at the pedal before it starts to move the clutch. Check using one finger on the pedal.. If no free play, that's why it's slipping.. 
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| Author: | sg [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 5:30 am ] |
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Cheers fella's.....been an interesting few days........... will check using those little tricks this afternoon. I'm hoping it's just adjustment.
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| Author: | MrBob [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 6:51 am ] |
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I have the opposite problem now. I was starting to slip quite badly, so replaced the plate and diaphragm. I don't know about these colour codes but Karcraft sold it to me as "extra heavy duty". Grabs great, but not it's not dis-engaging fully and I'm having a lot of trouble getting it into gear (especially back into 1st after sitting at the lights in neutral). I had the machining done by Graham Russell so it should be good, any idea what else could be wrong?? I have had several people tell me the adjustment looks ok, could it be something simple like air in the clutch hydraulics?? Should I have a go at bleeding it or does anyone else have any other suggestions? Sorry about the post Hijack!!
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:06 am ] |
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What happens is when you fit a new clutch plate the backplate is further away from the flywheel- the clutch arm has to come out further to disengage. Is the clutch pedal hitting the floor? (it should) if not, I bet either the slave cyl piston is hitting the circlip or the stop nuts are nut adjusted out far enough. To stop the piston hitting the circlip (often due to wear of the linkage) there are 3 fixes- Lengthen pushrod, or Bend arm, or Remove the *&&%^$ circlip.
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| Author: | MrBob [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:07 am ] |
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Yes, the pedal is hitting the floor. Where to from here   
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:16 am ] |
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MrBob wrote: Yes, the pedal is hitting the floor. Where to from here
How much free play is at the pedal? Should be 20-25mm before it starts to disengage. Check that first, and adjust stop screw- then check the 2 big stop nuts are not screwed in too far. If all else fails you might need a new MC, like Gafmo and Mike did. |
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| Author: | MrBob [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:20 am ] |
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There was a little paint peeling off the clutch cover when i pulled it out - looks likt the tell tale signs of a fluid leak. I suppose the old clutch was OK because there was bugger-all pressure there, but with the heavy duty diaphragm it's probably too much for it. I will price up master and slave cylinders just in case. Thanks. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:23 am ] |
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Check the slave cylinder, if there's fluid inside the rubber boot it's time for a new one, or seals.. |
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| Author: | justminis [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:25 am ] |
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Check for wear on ALL the pivot points, how are your clevis pins? What's the ball foot like on the bottom of the clutch arm? If you have too much wear in all these points, you have movement that isn't helping your clutch work properly. If you haven't already, start with all new clevis pins if any wear, there are 3, and go from there. |
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| Author: | sg [ Tue Apr 12, 2005 4:33 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: A Cooper S blue dot one handled all the power my 1310 could throw at it.. but the new 1360 has an orange one, just in case..
If it's a blue dot and slipping, maybe the installed height of the clutch is wrong, ie the diaphragm spring is not flat when assembled. There is a thread in Mods on this problem. Or if you're lucky, it might be arm stop adjustment. There should be ~20-25mm free play at the pedal before it starts to move the clutch. Check using one finger on the pedal.. If no free play, that's why it's slipping.. Thanks Doc and Anton...... checked for free play this arvo.... there was none anyway, adjusted and yes we have no slip!!! and oh does he pull hard now through 3rd.......
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