Ok I know some people prefer pot over uni's but I am the opposite. Plus the fact my car is already set up for uni's.

I want to know, can you just swap the uni joint couplings off the back of my old gearbox and onto this new gearbox which is already on the engine with pot joints?

Are the shafts and bolt holes the same??

The second question I have,, if I wish, can I pull the diff out of the back of my old gearbox which is majic wand, and put it in this new gearbox? The new gearbox is rod change obviously with pot joints. My theroy behind doing this is that way I have the correct driveshaft joints (ie uni's) and I also have the correct gear lever style for my car which has the majic wand hole in the floor.

Just wondering if this can be done?

Cheers Lockie.

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Get some pot joint shafts and use pot joints. They are much better and your easiest option by far. Win win.

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i was waiting for someone to say this...

To tell you the truth I HATE!! pot joints. I know other people like them, but thats my opinion. Don't even ask why I hate them. They just don't work for me.. I'm happy with uni's. I'm not going to go into debate why (as I know people will object), its just my decision.

I have pot joints however they are in Little red and that means a lot of pissing around to get them out, I have to dismantle the whole front end, just to seperate them from the Cv's, then I I have to put it all back togther just to move the car around.. soo no going to happen....

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Your new gearbox already has pot joints? Isn't the question about putting this gearbox in another car? In that case as Scott suggestion just get the driveshafts to match..easy.

Pot joints are used on every modern FWD car, they are a good thing.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

You can use uni joints on your rod change gearbox but you will need to change the diff output shafts, which means pulling the diff out and pulling it apart. The diff side plates will accept the uni yokes so all you need to do is change the outputs. Nothing wrong with uni joints, rubber ones are nice and smooth for a road car, its only when you abuse them is when they start to break.

You can not fit your "wand" type diff housing on to a rod change box, you will have to swap gearboxes if you want to keep your wand change.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Lockie just rip the driveshafts out of red including the cv's, and no need to dissasemble the front end either. then just take blue's shafts incl cv's out. and swap into red so you can keep moving red around. its a straight swap, you would only have to change the cv's if going to disc brakes.
It will be much easier than changing pot joints to uni's.

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yea thought about that, but seems alot of effort, specially when I don't have luck with bearings and all. Everytime I open up the hub I end up in drama. Bearings not right etc etc..

Plus I will need to be going to Disc Brakes with the new engine and can't exactly split the Cv's from the shaft while they are in the car... if that makes sense??

Plus won't putting a different CV in blueys hub with her bearings cause something to go wrong? Not mesh together right? etc?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

The bearings are all the same. you're not pulling the drive flange off just taking the cv out. the bearings will remain in place. Just dont move the cars while the cv's are out as the wheels will fall off.

It's the least time consuming option and also the cheapest $0 extra cost.
When you get discs you will have to replace the cv's anyway so you can do the rest then.

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Be aware that the rubber uni's made these days are crap, they fall apart and do there best to wear your gearbox case away. Cooper S uni's are my 1st choice, pot joints 2nd, rubber uni's a distant 3rd.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

hmmm this idea scares me.... wheels falling off... i could bump it and then the wheels fall off and ive ****ed bearings....

The car won't be running until it gets disc brakes, however the engine will be coming first, due to money allowing so. Disc brakes will have to wait a few months until the budget recovers. In the mean time Can I put the engine in the car, and just not attach shafts yet,,, and when I get the disc brakes which will be aleady assembled just remove both top and bottom ball joints, steering arm, and brake hoses, then pull the hole thing out, and replace the new disc brakes with the driveshafts and will they pop into the pot joints in the engine without any drama's this way... will this work?? Easy enough yeah??

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

huh?

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62980

haha you make me laugh simon.. Yes I was selling those to fund for this motor and because I am still off work needed the money that month badly...

Sometimes you have to sell stuff you need later on... money doesent always have felixibly when you are a poor uni student living outta home

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Another option (since you feel you have no luck with bearings!) is to leave the outer CV's in place and remove the drive shafts from them.

Pot joints are way better than Uni's - as long as you keep the boots in good condition. I suspect that you don't like them because you've had difficult getting them apart the right way and have probably taken the boots off and seperated the joints by removing the inner from the outer and mess every where?

The correct way is to undo and release the top ball joint and left the hub fall away from the car. Then get a long pointed (but not sharp) drift and give the inner of the inner CV a good sharp hit, might need to or three goes, but they come apart easy and clean.

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damn right you are mate.. I couldn't help but laugh when I read this, cos ur EXACTLY RITE. I was covered in greese from head to toe, I ended up wearing it all. Enough greese to sink an army in there.... lol.

I didn't have a ball joint spiltter and didn't want to reak my ball joints trying to do it the old fashioned way,,, 2 scared to do that, neva done that b4...

Thats one of the reasons why I like uni's treat them well and they will be fine. Also don't have to piss around with taking the ball joints off etc...


"Then get a long pointed (but not sharp) drift and give the inner of the inner CV a good sharp hit, might need to or three goes, but they come apart easy and clean.[/quote]"

I dont understand this bit....

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

I agree, but a better option if you have rubber unis already is fit the QL5000 joints. These were NLA for years but are now available again.
They are a Hardy Spicer U/J with 4 nylon adaptors on them, so they bolt straight in there in place of the rubber ones.
Last for years, just don't over-tighten the U-bolts.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.