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WTF was that???
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Author:  NAV [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:20 pm ]
Post subject:  WTF was that???

That was this bit going crack when I hit a not so small hump in the road. :evil:

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Straddling the hump to show the height and why I decided to go round it but couldn't due to on coming traffic

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VE Clubsport
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Elantra before and during the bump, and it's not even on the highest part

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I've lodged a claim with the NSW RTA in regards to the damage to the car, they have already responded and are asking me to get 2 quotes to have the car repaired as part of their investigation.
Would it be safe if the frame was dropped out and welded up? or get another one and transfer all the bits from my frame?

Author:  subwayseth [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:26 pm ]
Post subject: 

if they're going to pay out get a spare

Author:  Mick [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:29 pm ]
Post subject: 

What road is that??

Author:  blue_deluxe [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

If they're paying get a new frame in there and get the old one welded up and keep it as a spare. If you have to pay then just get it welded.

Author:  NAV [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mick wrote:
What road is that??


That is Tevern Rd just west of Ballina NSW. It's a very well known shortcut to save going through Ballina and 15 minutes of travel time

Author:  Morris 1100 [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:33 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have seen plenty of frames crack in that spot, the frame in my Cooper S was the worst!
You will need to remove the frame to weld it so it may be easier to just get another good frame and use it.

Author:  GT mowog [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:33 pm ]
Post subject: 

It is un-likely that the crack would have been done by that, however it most likely has made it somewhat worse.

I weld them up, usually you find the raised pressing where the tower bolts go in has also cracked and need welding. But still run with the claim with the RTA for a replacement sub-frame.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue May 11, 2010 8:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

I'd sooner trust that one properly rewelded all round, than an old s/h dodgy one that may be another event waiting to happen.
Easy to weld up once it's out of the car.
I did this to the one in Mini Mad's Starlet Mini before it went in. :wink:

Author:  simon k [ Tue May 11, 2010 10:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

seen heaps of dry subframes cracked around there - best pull it out and weld it up

so get a couple of quotes on having it done - from friendly mini shops of course

Author:  Mick [ Tue May 11, 2010 10:49 pm ]
Post subject: 

Do you reckon if he could drop it 4 inches, a fellow could get a mig in there to run a bead along the crack? It's not much more than dropping the engine and subframe completely out, but at least it means he can drop the body straight back down on the subframe once its done.......?

Author:  Tombo [ Tue May 11, 2010 11:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

Get them to repair it, and complain about the road condition, it's clearly unsafe.
There was a viscious drop in a road near my place, so bad i stopped using the road. It nearly got me out of control more than once :shock:
The road has since been repaired..

Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue May 11, 2010 11:21 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mick wrote:
Do you reckon if he could drop it 4 inches, a fellow could get a mig in there to run a bead along the crack? It's not much more than dropping the engine and subframe completely out, but at least it means he can drop the body straight back down on the subframe once its done.......?

You won't get right round it, which it needs. They were only stitch welded (with stick electrodes) by the factory.
It's not much effort to drop it out, engine and all.
I'd weld the other side too.

Author:  850man [ Wed May 12, 2010 2:08 am ]
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They have been cracking around there since they were new! The BMC compertitions department welded all the way around and even added a strenghing plate because it was so common.

Author:  mickmini [ Wed May 12, 2010 4:34 am ]
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To do this properly you need to pull it out, clean it up properly, weld around and STRESS RELIEVE the welded area.

The reason they crack here is because the heat effected zone will have inclusions (stress raiser), nice brittle martensite if it was quenched without stress relieving (stress raiser) and cracks (stress raiser). All of which lead to fatigue as the road bumps apply cyclic loads to the joint.

cheers
michael

Author:  GT mowog [ Wed May 12, 2010 8:30 am ]
Post subject: 

The cracks i've seen form in subframes - front and rear - (and I've seen a lot) have all been from the metal deformation in the pressing process rather than any stress from the welds :wink:

The tower tops are not just welded on top as is easily seen, they are welded in many places on the sides and inside too, yet they don't crack at these points.

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