Hi Guys,

So after getting sick of points, and always stuffing around, I have decided to convert my dizzy to electric.

However, I have also decided that this would be a good time to get a dizzy curved to match my new motor. My questions are as follows:

- What is involved in re-curving the dizzy/ how is it done?
- Does the place (say GR) need the motor/car there to do it? or do they just need to know the specs?
- What dizzy would suit best? the motor is a 1330, with 266 cam and very mild head work.
- I'm not really keen on going down the pulsar route, so I'd like to stick with either a 45D or 29D or any other standard mini one. What electric kit works best?

Any other advice?

_________________
Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

Go Scorcher, it's all done for you by Performance Ignition Services in Melbourne in a couple of days. Bosch electronics for the internals. Just drop it in, turn it till you get the right advance at idle and away you go.

_________________
Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

wait for GT to respond....

recurving a dizzy to suit a particular engine would be a very expensive process - car on dyno, run through the rev range, figure out where it needs the advance and how much, adjust, re-test, adjust, re-test etc. etc.

or you could hide a coil pack in a distributor body

To re-curve the dissy 100% correct for YOUR engine, it should be done from dyno tests, however it is possible to guesstimate close to where it might need to be. If your running a high CR (more that 10:1) I wouldn't risk a guesstimate, as it can do ir-reversable (re - expensive) damage if it is wrong.

As slide suggest, Scorcher is the way to got, if you want to retain a convention dissy. Uses all readily availabe BOSCH parts.

Or as Simon has suggested a Megajolt or similar system really is the only way to go, it has so many advantages over a conventional dissy and most are quite easy to set up. The Megajolt is good but there are other systems as well. My only critisism of the Megajolt is it does not have a MAP sensor or Knock Sensor input, which I think is be worked upon for the next development.

_________________

I'm putting a http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?x ... &xSec=5497 in the stroker, if I find it needs recurving for the RE13 cam I'll see GR, or Ivan Glasby (Mini Spares & Repairs, Castle Hill). Both have distributor testing machines.

I think 43D and 45D dizzys are more durable than the 29D.

[edit] 10 years ago I ran a 1310S motor, VP3 cam, offset bushed rockers, 45 Dellorto etc etc. It had a stock 45D dizzy with a Pertronix ignitor in it.
It went hard. I only sold it (to ozmotorsport) when I got the Pulsar dizzy working properly.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

it does use a MAP sensor, but yes, a knock sensor would be handy

however, since dizzy must be retained, then I'll keep my lips zipped

What is wrong with the Pulsar dizzy? It will give a more accurate spark than any worn out Lucas dizzy.

I have been running one in my car for years and it never gets touched apart from an inspection about every 12 months. It has not been recurved.

The advantage of recurving a Pulsar (on an A series with a modified cam etc etc) by reducing the advance plate to 9 or 10° is it brings the static and low speed advance up (assuming max advance point is set the same). This helps low speed and midrange torque.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If a conventional dissy is to be retained, then, these modules and similar ones from Aldon are really good.

The 23D4, 25D4 although getting a bit long in the tooth are - for a Lucas Dissy - good as are the later 43D4 series on.

I convert the 29D4's to a roller shaft to make them last, however it's hardly worth it. About the next best thing to do with them is throw them in the bin.

Sorry Simon, yes, the Megajolt does use the MAP sensor, it's been a little while since I looked at them, as I am doing my own which is programable from the passangers (or drivers if your good) seat and no lap top needed!! It does also use a MAP sensor and a Knock Sensor. It also has 2 switchable maps in memory, so - for one example - it is possible to run 98 octane for the street, then switch over for some exotic race fuel for the track AND be protected for knocking......

_________________

hmmm, it seems everybody I speak to about this has a different view.

It makes it hard to decide what to do.

My current dizzy has no apparent problems except for the fact that it has points and they keep doing stupid things.

so.....I guess I go the cheapest route to replacing them and put one of the kits on it.

So, now I need to decide on the right kit.

Why is there such a big price difference in all of these kits?
They all seem to be the same thing.

_________________
Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

The cheap UK (£15) ones are dearer here ($100) because the retailers have to make a buck.

The dearer ones (eg Pertronix) are allegedly more reliable.
You can buy them here, however they are cheaper if bought from USA-
http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /lucas.htm

Once you fit an electronic kit or dizzy, you will find the ignition timing stays correct for much longer.

Any of them are better than points- points suck.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.