Hi all.
Have a 75 mini with 1100 motor. Clutch was super dodgy when i bought the car(ie: couldn't get 1st or reverse etc..). Put new clutch master, new slave, bled system up 100% and put new clutch disc and diaphram and release bearing. Now I can' even get gears. The clutch is adjusted up and the slave has full throw, its like its not doing anything past that.

Any ideas or comment??
Thanks

Hows the clutch arm?

Does it have a nice round ball on the end, or is it flattened off?

Sometimes the arms crack below the pivot point as well, which automatically means no gear selection. (well, technically no clutch action)

Can you select all the gears normally with the engine off and stationary?

cheers

Jacob

_________________
'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Can get gears stationary with no engine. From memory the clutch are was ok. Not bent, cant rightly remember if it was flatened or round? Was a couple of months ago I put the clutch in, and have only just tried to get going now.
Will have to pull apart again I suspect.

i've just put 20mm on my slave push rod and it's now driveable but could do with a few more mms put on it!

Here's a reasonable pic of a mini clutch arm :

http://www.guessworks.fsnet.co.uk/pics/clutch1.JPG

The ball on the end wears, often quite flat, then people bend them to compensate. Works for a little while...

_________________
'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

On E-Bay some time in the past, I saw an adjustable push rod that you could make longer/shorter. But this just compensates for wear in the mechanicals.

_________________
Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

When I put my new motor in I had the same problem.

I just couldn't get the clutch right, tried everything. Took it to the mechanic. The push rod was shorter than the others he had in his parts. Swapped it and all was good.

Ryan

_________________
Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

Thanks for the replies peoples.
I ended up making a longer pushrod for the slave cylinder. Bit of trial and error til i got the length right but seems ok, for he moment. I don't get why I had to do it but, old clutch was pretty crap house but would still work mostly. New clutch master, slave, and assembly and still had to make new push rod. Oh well, I'll try to figure that later.

As things like the clutch arm, pivot pins and throwout plunger wear, or the flywheel gets relapped onto the crank, the clutch arm moves outwards.
Sooner or later the slave piston hits the circlip, and then the pedal won't go to the floor. This limits your clutch action.
3 ways I know to fix the problem:
1. Remove the circlip and run without, it serves no useful purpose once the cylinder is installed. or,
2. Make the pushrod longer by ~6mm. or,
3. Heat the clutch arm 1/2 way up and bend towards the motor.

#1 works for me for the last 15 years, and the rest of my clutch assembly is still stock.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.