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 Post subject: Priming / Painting
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:42 pm 
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Hey All,

I've almost finished stripping the clubby down to metal (and fixing all the dents) I'm going to be painting it with 2pak eventually, but before I get that far I need to prime it.

I've been told that "people don't bother with etch primer these days, it adds too much time/cost to the job" and that they just put 2k Primer Filler directly to the metal.

Is that correct? I always thought you had to etch prime first, then add primer filler

EDIT: I'll be using Autothane Primer and Topcoat from PPG (the primer is is able to be used as "a filling primer or as a primer surfacer")

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:22 pm 
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Etch prime it! If your going through the hassel of going bare metal, and fixing all the dings, then etch prime it.
Maybe what they were refering to was not taking the original paint back to bare metal, just sanding and feathering, then hifilling it for the 2k paint.
My current project is getting the works! Etch, spray nikki, hifill, and paint! And of course, a hell of a lot of blocking back! But worth it for a dead flat finish. Cross fingers that is!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:36 pm 
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micowen wrote:
Etch prime it! If your going through the hassel of going bare metal, and fixing all the dings, then etch prime it.
Maybe what they were refering to was not taking the original paint back to bare metal, just sanding and feathering, then hifilling it for the 2k paint.
My current project is getting the works! Etch, spray nikki, hifill, and paint! And of course, a hell of a lot of blocking back! But worth it for a dead flat finish. Cross fingers that is!


No no, there are people out there (yeah thats right PEOPLE!!! Who'd of thought hey? :) ) who do just put the hifill down on the bare metal......its OK if its just "bog and flog" or a rushed job.... but it won't last great and the paint won't stick real well.

The etch prime has acidic properties that physically bite the metal (teeth and all honest.... they're just too small to see :) ) so it will ALWAYS adhere much better.

Just remember that it does not dry real hard... so 2 light coats only... otherwise when you put that lovely hard drying epoxy primer down over it, it will tend to crack off and chip easy...

Think of it like a choc top ice cream... the hard chocolate breaks up real easy with the soft iced cream underneath...


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 11:26 pm 
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Thanks guys... I'll break out the etch primer and do it properly!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:46 am 
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They didnt put the light coats only on the can of etch primer. I wondered why the fresh paint on my subframe is chipping.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:40 pm 
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Also, to be on the safe side, download a pdf on the paint product, or ask at the counter for one. Follow the manufacturers recommendations! Not like some "idiot" did once! :oops:

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