Hey All

Has anyone machined their front bump stops down so they can lower the front a little more?

The bump stops are approx 20mm from the subframe, was thinking I could machine 5-10mm off the top of them inturn allowing me to drop the front down some more with room for the bump stop to do there thing!

Cheers!

Be careful, if you take too much off you might bend (and break) the balljoint pin.
Having said that, I linished 4mm off mine (on the pointy part).. all has been good since (12 years or so).
You won't machine them with a lathe tool though, they are too soft.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You may as well just get a good knife and cut it.

OK, cool. linishing does sound like the way to go, thanks

How close to the subfame do people run their bump stops? How close can you run them?

By the way mine are the competitions ones!

My moke is about 5mm off the bump stops.
Not by choice, but by sagged rubbers.

I would suggest removing the trumpet & bump stop and doing a trial movment first to find out where the ball joints and drive shafts will limit travel. Measure it to the shock mount - however, be aware that once you have lowered it this much, you'll have a LOT of neg camber, so you'll want to shorten the lower arms. This will make the upper ball joint hitting it's cup worse. Also keep in mind that if you are running bushes in the lower arm, it will make this worse still. IF the ball joint pin hits the cup, it won't take long for it to fail, so I would not suggest you overlook this imprtant point, as it wouldn't be much fun.

You may want to reinforce the mounting pad on the subframe with some 3 - 5 mm plating. You can then use Rear Bump Stops from a std Hydro set up as these are about 10 mm smaller than the fronts.

If this set up is for road use, I wouldn't recommend it at all.

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