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Selector fork wear
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64081
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Author:  harry33 [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Selector fork wear

Hi all,

I'm at the stage of figuring out which bits of my gearbox need to be replaced. The 1st/2nd selector fork has about 0.025" side clearance, and 3rd/4th has about 0.05". I assume 3rd/4th needs to be replaced, but would I be able to reuse 1st/2nd?

Cheers,
Harry

Author:  GT mowog [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

They are both cactus. Maximum clearance is 0.015"

Author:  harry33 [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

Ok, I'll add them to the shopping list..

One more thing, is there a trick to removing the pivot post that the bellcrank levers sit on? I'd like to renew the seal there, but I haven't been able to drift the post from the case (which is what the manual suggests).

Cheers,
Harry

Author:  GT mowog [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

harry33 wrote:
Ok, I'll add them to the shopping list..

One more thing, is there a trick to removing the pivot post that the bellcrank levers sit on? I'd like to renew the seal there, but I haven't been able to drift the post from the case (which is what the manual suggests).

Cheers,
Harry


These don't normally give trouble so I usually leave them, but if you have disturbed it best to keep going with it. I have a support that I put under the gearcase that is a lttle larger in diameter than the pivot boss (underside) and I press them out. The gearcases are only alloy so I feel it not a good idea to go banging stuff around in them.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

GT mowog wrote:
They are both cactus. Maximum clearance is 0.015"

They had .015" clearance when NEW, I'd say a bit more is OK. IMO if over .030", find new or better ones. Yes we know they are expensive now.:wink:

[edit] The Poms being cheapskates often squeeze them in a vice to close them up, I don't like to do this as they are a casting (brittle).

Author:  GT mowog [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 

drmini in aust wrote:

They had .015" clearance when NEW


Sorry here but I beg to differ, I have found them NEW to be around the 0.005 - 0.006"........but then that is on a Rod Shift :wink:

Oh and I only use genuine ones............

Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 

GT mowog wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:

They had .015" clearance when NEW


Sorry here but I beg to differ, I have found them NEw to be around the 0.005 - 0.006"........

Well I did find that figure in a BMC factory book somewhere. :lol:

Author:  GT mowog [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:13 pm ]
Post subject: 

drmini in aust wrote:

Well I did find that figure in a BMC factory book somewhere. :lol:


Page f6 of the Black Book :wink:

Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

I successfully built a pair or remote forks up 15 years ago with SBA245 silver solder, and machined them to fit.
I rebuilt the GT box (ex Chris Buckingham) for my boss along with the motor (now 1330) but it's still sitting on a pallet at work!!:mrgreen:
I'm sure they will work OK, silver has a low friction coefficient and this stuff won't melt until 610°C.

Author:  GT mowog [ Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

drmini in aust wrote:
I successfully built a pair or remote forks up 15 years ago with SBA245 silver solder, and machined them to fit.
I rebuilt the GT box (ex Chris Buckingham) for my boss along with the motor (now 1330) but it's still sitting on a pallet at work!!:mrgreen:
I'm sure they will work OK, silver has a low friction coefficient and this stuff won't melt until 610°C.


I've often looked at doing something similar, especally on 1st / 2nd fork. The thrust area on these is pittiful. No wonder they wear so quick.

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