I seemed to have pierced one of my cars leads with the bonnet catch (now fixed) however i need to replace the lead (car runs but not under any load (ie cant get it out of the driveway....)

I checked the Minisport Website Rover section, but the only leads they quote as "rover only" is for Mini twin point injection lead set (4 leads only) however i have single point fuel injected ...

Can anyone point me in the right direction?? Do supercheap/autobarn/similar stock something like this???

Most auto shops, like supercrap, do sell 'loose' leads. Take yours in to get the right lengths and end fittings, no need to go 'Rover Only'.

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legend. Now removed and i am eagerly waiting for supercrap to open.

thank you.....

It's nice to get a 'thank you' doesn't happen around here too often though.

Your welcome

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how the hell do you pierce a lead with the bonnet latch. Did you have the leads off the spark plug and put the bonnet down on it. The Bosch one's are good but you will not find the double right angled one

And Yes GT Thanks should be more used around here

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Marcello,
Bosch p/nos @ supercrap etc-

Bosch plug leads-
3 x B35Ri,
1 x B45Ri
1 x B30CRi (coil lead) if coil is mounted on engine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

THANK YOU..... Isn't that a magic word ? It encourages people to share more. UNFORTUNATELY NOT HEARD OFTEN ENOUGH ON HERE. So goes for the other word "Please" instead of "HEY". Thanks guys for making this Forum work like a happy place.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I ALWAYS say thank you.... god if it wasnt for the amount of good will and help i get off here, i would have long lost the passion for owning a Mini...



Oh and Gaf... you would not believe this car. I go to check the oil, somehow i short circuit the torque converter capacitor. I close the bonnet and the secondary catch (not the locking mexhanism, but the other one that locks into the shell when the bonnet is unlocked) bent off the air conditioning pipe and managed to go straight through the protective cover of the lead off the distributor cap.

In the garage she is fine to start and move forward and back.... under load, she loses that cylinder. I didnt realise what was happening and put my hand into the engine bay and touched the lead and SHHHHHHHHHTTTTTTT i got zapped.

damn car

so close to gannons too.

: (

P.s Doc... thanks to you too...hopefully super cheap will have one. THe local parts guy tried to sell me a coil lead (I think) from a Falcon or something because it was "about the same length"

idiots.

>: - |

and the Doc has given you part numbers for ignition leads that are "about the same length". what is the difference?

Length and resistance; and the style of connectors?
Not stirring, just making the point that for all you know, that lead may have worked fine too.
KB

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The leads I quoted are for a top entry dizzy cap, 90° ends, and the plug end & coil ends are straight.
Unlike Topgun etc cheapo leads, these Bosch ones don't use carbonised string as a conductor.
I have had a set for about 4 or 5 years, they still measure the same resistance as when I fitted them.

re the coil leads, I now use a 600mm long one with 90° at both ends. The coil is mounted on the RH inner guard, behind the Minimatic fresh air heater. It never gets wet now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When i say "about" the same length, there was about 2 cm in it.... the ones at Supercheap with the above part numbers were the same length but with 90deg connector at the dizzy and straight connector at the block.

If your having a bit of trouble getting what your after, Karcraft have packaged lead sets, reasonably priced (~24 bucks-ish), they have the 90 deg connectors both ends, they fit and the work.

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But Doc your throttle cable is about to short out on your solenoid + terminal!!

Optical illusion... it's nowhere near it.
The battery cable terminal is bare because it's where I hook the battery charger to once a week (battery is 4 yrs old and getting tired).
Much easier than rooting around under the boot board to do it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.