Problem is the temp gauge and fuel gauge dont work 90% of the time. 10% of the time they come up and work fine.

I replaced the voltage stabilizer on the back of the dash thinking that might be an issue, but it hasnt solved the issue.

This hasnt been an issue for 12 months, just all of a sudden.

The lights on the three dash still wotk. Any sugestions? Cheers ausmini

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Cheers, Ben

- 1974 Leyland Mini S

Does your instruments have a tacho?

Could be the +ve fed to the instruments.

Check yr connections on the fuse box (all the green wires) and the fuse too, it may not be blown but they do have a habit of making a bad connection.

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I'd be inclined to try another stabiliser, both my fuel and temp gauges stop working every
now and then but because it's a bit of a pain to get at i've been putting up with it..but originally both gauges were reading low until i changed it, they then read normal. Nothing to say the one you changed to wasn't any good.
Colin.

PM wombat, he makes 10V electronic ones cheap to replace these antique 50's technology Ps of S.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep, I would say faulty live feed, probably due to the low quality, low budget BLA printed circuit on the instruments.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

+1 re Wombats electronic replacement, my fuel and temp guages are now super consistant

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Well I tried everything conceivable today, including cleaning every positive connection, changing dash clusters, etc etc. everything I could think of that could make a difference, and it didnt do a damn thing.

I have already replaced the voltage stabilizer, with this one I bought from from MiniSportlast week. I have a couple spare (old, original ones though), so I can keep swapping a few of the old ones in, aswell as PM'ing Wombat.

I cant see how everything else can work on the dash execpt those two things...damn it. Ohwell, it keeps me entertained, love the fact you can problem-solve in these little cars!

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Cheers, Ben

- 1974 Leyland Mini S

Okay, so about a week ago I replaced the older stabilisers with the on I got from Wombat, following all instructions!

Still nothing, not even a hint! All lights etc still working...its got me puzzled.

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Cheers, Ben

- 1974 Leyland Mini S

Have you had a good close look at the PC 'board' on the back of the instrument cluster? The copper tracks do crack and can sometimes be very had to see. Check with a magnifing glass.

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Have you checked there is power to the connector on the back of the instrument cluster.

Also check and make sure the plugs from the igntion switch are secure and clean.

You can test for power with the connectors conneted by pushing a small dress makers pin into the wires they are small enough and if you ensure you push them into the middle of the wire they do very little damage to insulation when removed. I also dab some clear nail polish on the hole to reseal

I also use this method to find a breaks in wiring because you can clip a new wire on if you use two pins on the same wire also good for checking bad conectors in blocks like on jap cars and bikes where its hard to fit the multimeter into

Just don't let them sort out as they get red hot and make a mess the wires.

The other thing to check are earth wires, use a conutinity tester

Hope this helps

Kiwiinwgtn

I think it is time I sell you a new PC board ! But please make sure you trace exactly where the fault is coming from. Have you tested if you have 12V going into the Voltage stabilizer and 10V out ? Try and test back from the gauge and determine where the Voltage is stopping. Check the connections at the cluster make sure all pins are clean and making contact.

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