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stupid bypass hose https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64753 |
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Author: | jimmyinamini [ Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:11 pm ] |
Post subject: | stupid bypass hose |
just done my head gasket and i am having heaps o trouble with thart ****ing retarded flexiable hose is it posible to put the straight piece back on without removing the head seriously though if it is not posible im removing the head again aaaaaaarggggh the frustration |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Sure is, just drop the water pump off... The corrugated hoses are crap, it's hard to beat a nice piece of 1/2" (USA made) heater hose.. Cooper S never had the corrugated rubbish. ![]() |
Author: | Tombo [ Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
You can get the flexi one in if you are really good (and have small hands), i have never even attempted to get a straight bit in there with the head on. |
Author: | jimmyinamini [ Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
thanx doc thanx tombo looks like im dropping the water pump my hands just wont fit in there i tell you though im pretty pised with myself for letting the guy at sprints sell me that flexy bit to start with oh well i know for next time |
Author: | MiniKit [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:16 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I've got a flexi hose on mine and not had any problems. I thought that is why they are flexi, so that you can get them on with the head in place. |
Author: | Hunter2 [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:52 am ] |
Post subject: | |
300 psei hydraulic hose...done one time only. |
Author: | goodie [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:11 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I just changed mine the other week, granted it is a sh!t of a job, i put another flexi hose on it because i reckon it is easier than taking other bits and pieces off to get the job done. I don't think that they are too bad when you consider that the other one had been on the car over 12 yrs. A little trick that i did was to smear a very small amount if vasoline inside the 2 ends to make it slip over the fittings easier, i put the bottom end on first and then slowly worked the top end on ( don't forget to put your hose clamps on before, and leave them loose ),once you have it on you should be able to spin the hose around with your fingers bit by bit to make sure that it is over the top fitting because you can't see down there very well. The other thing i did to was i used 2 NEW clamps and make sure that when you put them over the hose that they are positioned so that you can get to them when you go to do them up, also it makes it easier to do next time. Above all take your time, it is one of those jobs that you can't rush. PS, A tip for those that haven't done this job yet, do it at home in the shed , it's easier than doing it on the side of the road ! |
Author: | kerrie wilks [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:14 am ] |
Post subject: | replacing hose |
The first one I did took hours--I think that was about 1965.Now what I do is to put the bottom on (with hose clip) --then iput the top clip on & position a thin paint scraper between the top of the hose & the outlet in head, pussh down to compress hose & whe all is in position carefully pull paint scraper out------hose SHOULD then just slip over outlet. Don,t forget a little bit of vaseline inside hose. With a bit of luck, should take a few minutes. --Don,t forget to tighten it up. |
Author: | jimmyinamini [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 10:19 am ] |
Post subject: | |
got it this morning took about 45 mins the thing just would not slip onto the head with the clamp in my way so i managed to completly undo the clamp feed it around then do it back up and yea i used high temp bearing grease for a little slip defenatly not something i will be using when i do it next time |
Author: | cooper19613 [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 10:33 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Check the hose carfully before putting on. A couple of years ago replaced the bypass hose when the head was off. Leaked...went to put another of those flexi hoses on, but this time I checked it thoroughly first. Brand new hose was split. Now run heater hose purchased from Kenworth. |
Author: | simon k [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:05 am ] |
Post subject: | |
![]() |
Author: | jimmyinamini [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
simon k wrote: ![]() thats the way and its guaranteed never to be blocked full of gunk |
Author: | GT mowog [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 1:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Simon has the right idea. Block it off. Not needed and only makes trouble. The late mini's never had it, maybe they finally woke up. |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 3:19 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
GT mowog wrote: Simon has the right idea. Block it off. Not needed and only makes trouble. The late mini's never had it, maybe they finally woke up.
They did have a sandwich plate and hose, under the thermostat instead... If you have a heater and the tap is on, or an aux radiator, you would have circulation anyway. If not, you won't. Will pump cavitation damage the impeller? I doubt it- this ain't the Manly Hydrofoil. ![]() |
Author: | GT mowog [ Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
drmini in aust wrote: GT mowog wrote: Simon has the right idea. Block it off. Not needed and only makes trouble. The late mini's never had it, maybe they finally woke up. They did have a sandwich plate and hose, under the thermostat instead... If you have a heater and the tap is on, or an aux radiator, you would have circulation anyway. If not, you won't. Will pump cavitation damage the impeller? I doubt it- this ain't the Manly Hydrofoil. ![]() Actually the original by-pass set up causes cavitation, it's too close to the pump, that's why they changed it. Most of my mini's haven't run a by-pass of any type for around 20 years, with no problems at all. |
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