so the big upgrade is about to happen!! woot.

is there a easy way out so to speak? per topic.

some one mentioned a quick way, was it to pop the top or bottom ball joint
& pop out the drive shaft things?

i have a rod change, can i undo the extractors ( do i need to) and kinda lean the engine forward & pull it out?

with out touching the exhaust etc?

i did it the long way last time so any quick tips would be great.

dam rover crap, to much to remove!

engine has to come out the top in my circumstance.

thanks

How To section: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45377

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Too many cars, and too little time.

yes doogie has done a very good how to.

just wondered if there is some shortcuts at all.

nifty tricks.

thanks though!

Take your car down to a wrecking yard and they'll get it out quickly for you lol There is no real quick way. Just leave as much on the motor as you can, and if it won't come out, then take off whats stopping it.

I normally just take the bonnet off, unnattach the motor from the car (ie. unplug wires, unbolt steady bars, engine mounts etc) Normally just unbolt the carb from the manifold and stick it over near the master cylinders, with the cables still attached. Jack the car up and deal with the gearshift/exhaust/uni joints and drain the oil. If it has pot joints i leave them until i start lifting the motor. Once motor is free off subframe i pop the pot joints out, 1 side at a time then keep lifting the motor up, not forgetting to undo the speedo cable before moving the engine away from the car.

I leave the wheels/hubs alone but each to their own.

The type of extractors decides wether you can leave them bolted on the head.

i completely agree with this bit, not necessary really..

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Nick youll have to do something with the hubs, i know for a fact the engine crane hes using wont clear the tyres, unless you put it in close.

If you jam bits of wood underneath the top arm when its on the ground then jack it up and take the wheels off, this keeps the hubs at the same level as if the suspension was loaded. Then slide the crane under.

But once youve done that its about a minutes work to undo the bottom ball joint and pull the pot joints out. Then its far easier and everything can move around.

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Simplify and add lightness

joe, joe, joe, creating more work for yourself..... everyone to their own I guess... (silly big engine cranes, its only a mini )

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Don't forget the earth strap!!

If you're half way out and it gets hard to pull, you've forgot it!

They do break with enough force!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

My usual sequence of removal is:
Drain the fluid(s) as nessecary.
Undo the mounts/stabilsers. remove wiring labelling as needed.
Jack up car and disconnect shifter & exhaust.
Lift engie a bit, wiggle out the pot joints as i'm lifting further. make sure the suspension is hanging free as it helps with pulling out the pot joints. uni joints are the other way load up the suspension as if the car was sitting on the ground.
keep checking clearances as im lifting and for anything i forgot and to discionnect the speedo as soon as possible (otherwise i will forget)

thats for the complete engine without manifolds though.

Installation is as easy as reversal of removal.................usually.

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haha oh well, all i have ever used are them big cranes. if you get it on the right angle it fits.

thanks guys, the hubs & pot joints is what i was after i normally undo my brakes set up & pipes, seems im doing it the long way.

I prefer to take the drive shaft out of the pot joints rather than seperate the pot joint itself. It is a little more difficult to remove, but is far cleaner and does make it much easier to put back in

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+1. Only way to fly

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Steve

Don't for get to drain the oil first,

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I am in the midst of an engine swap and I can't get the pin out of the gear selector on the rod change. Granted, I'm trying to use a bolt to bash it out, but it's a pain in the.... I'm going to get some pin punches tomorrow but am anticipating that there won't be enough room to swing a hammer on it. I've snapped a drill bit trying to drill it out. I've had one fall out on me whilst driving, but when I actually want it out it won't budge. What gives? Also, if it wasn't for this post, I would have absolutely forgotten about the speedo cable. I'll probably forget about it tomorrow after a few beers too

Pot Joints actually stay on the Gearbox, the driveshafts get 'disconnected' from the pot joints, so you can leave the oil in if you want

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