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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:42 pm 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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Location: Toowoomba Region, QLD
Ok, this is borderline getting rediculous :x

I've been working on my car replacing various clutch items (works fine now) and putting in new knuckles & hydro bag boots in the car.

Because I've had to source another hydro bag, which has taken time, my car has sat unused for nigh on a month.

I have been trying to get it to start for the last 2 hours. It is as if the fuel pump isn't pumping. The car starts and runs fine if I manually fill the float bowls with fuel. The float bowl on the drivers side is always empty when I take the lid off.

Do mechanical fuel pumps need to be primed if they have been sitting for an extended period?

Everything was working fine when I parked it a month ago.

Cheers, Nick

P.s. It has fresh fuel in it that I got from the same servo I always get my fuel from this arvo. I had drained the tank before I put the fresh stuff in.

Any help is appreciated.

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Last edited by 1018cc on Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:55 pm 
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1098cc
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mechanical fuel pump is run by the cam. it will take a few turns to get fuel pumped up to the carby. The fuel pump has a diaphram in it, which is pierced, or not sealed properly can lower your fuel rate or stop it.

with the pump off the motor in your hand, does it create suction on the pipe when you pump the arm.

put a clear bit of hose between the carby and the pump to see how much fuel is getting through (DO NOT leave the clear hose on your car)

do you have a filter, is it an inline one way filter is it in the wrong way. is your filter blocked. Is your fuel hose blocked, ie from the tank to the engine bay. is the tank itself blocked.

Follow it back.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:57 pm 
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The mechanical pump should self prime, but if you've drained you tanks when you parked up, it's likely that you've now picked up some crap (unless you have a filter between the tank and pump.

Get it running again with the fuel line off the carbie and see what (if any) petrol comes out. Depending on the pump you have, you maybe able to clean it.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:08 pm 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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Location: Toowoomba Region, QLD
Thanks for the suggestions guys, the situation is as follows:

Drexxle, I have put 4 float bowls worth of fuel through it so far, it is enough for the engine temp to reach normal operating temp (probably about 10 minutes of running all up before I gave up).

I have no tried putting my finger over the hose, I will try that :wink:

I just changed my fuel filter about 2,000 miles ago, the arrow is facing the right way and the car ran fine for those 2,000 miles until I parked it. When I was under the car draining the tank it was still clear (i.e. no brown muck in it like the last one). I will get a sexy assistant to crank the car with the hose off to see if the pump is pumping but the tank drained very quickly when I drained the old fuel out.

GTM, I only drained the tank last night, the old fuel sat in there for a month (1/4 tank). My fuel system goes tank -> filter in rear subby under tank -> metal pipe to mech fuel pump -> to carby's.

I will give these suggestions a go tomorrow. GTM, my pump is one you can service because it has had a kit put through it when the diaphram last s**t itself.

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 Post subject: Update
PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:50 pm 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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Location: Toowoomba Region, QLD
Update time,

I took the suggestions on board & investigated. I found that I had fuel coming out of the tank & into the solid line near the rear subframe. I jacked the rear of the car up pretty high to get some pressure head in the line. I found that with the in and out connections on my fuel pump tight, the pump leaked like a sieve.

It looks like not running it for a month, the seals have dried out, cracked and that is that. No wonder it wasn't pumping.

Next question, should I replace it with another mechanical fuel pump or fit a blanking plate with a lekky fuel pump? (My car is still POSITIVE EARTH so I will need a lekky pump that is positive earth, if that is the better way to go).

Thanks guys.

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 Post subject: Re: Update
PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:17 pm 
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Yay For Hay!
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
stupid mechanical pumps....

1018cc wrote:

Next question, should I replace it with another mechanical fuel pump or fit a blanking plate with a lekky fuel pump? (My car is still POSITIVE EARTH so I will need a lekky pump that is positive earth, if that is the better way to go).

Thanks guys.


yes, replace it with an electric pump, and any electric pump will run positive or negative earth.

Generally I think they don't care about polarity, but they're designed so that you can soft mount them, which means they won't be bolted to the body and need an earth to be run from the pump to the body.... so buy a pump and soft mount it (IE with an exhaust mount) and run two wires, it'll be quieter, and will work with your +'ve earth.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:54 am 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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thanks skssgn :wink:

In the event of a crash how do I wire the pump in so that it stops pumping fuel? Can I do it without one of those fancy inertia switches?

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:57 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Plumpton, NSW
Repco and places like that have Facet pumps or copies for about $90-120 depending on how keen their pricing is. I bought my last couple from Robbo's spares in Blacktown. Do you have that franchise in Toowoomba?
KB

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:59 am 
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1275cc
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1018cc wrote:
thanks skssgn :wink:

In the event of a crash how do I wire the pump in so that it stops pumping fuel? Can I do it without one of those fancy inertia switches?


Now you're getting too fancy. Do you really want to be chasing the lucas electrics for fault diagnosis with that level of sophistication?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:00 am 
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1018cc wrote:
thanks skssgn :wink:

In the event of a crash how do I wire the pump in so that it stops pumping fuel? Can I do it without one of those fancy inertia switches?


If that is a concern, then fit a mechanical pump.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:48 am 
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GT mowog wrote:
1018cc wrote:
thanks skssgn :wink:

In the event of a crash how do I wire the pump in so that it stops pumping fuel? Can I do it without one of those fancy inertia switches?


If that is a concern, then fit a mechanical pump.


but what if you crash and the engine keeps running??!! OMG!!

Realistically, the fuel system on a mini is all the way at the back of the engine bay and in a crash it's not likely to be damaged... and if you crash badly enough to damage it, I reckon you'll be close to dead anyway so maybe a fireball is a good thing.

one local guy here has a deluxe with an electric pump, and when it stopped one time we all scratched our heads for ages, and I pulled the pump out to check the points etc. etc. and then finally it came to light that he had a fuel cut solenoid - the wire had fallen off or something stupid - pain in the ass

One of my favourite things about the electric fuel pump is that when I need fuel for the mower I just pull the line off one carb and poke it into my fuel container, then pull the fuel pump wire off the switched fuse and put it on the live fuse - ticka ticka ticka ticka


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:01 am 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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Righto thanks guys. I'll track down some parts at lunch time.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:48 pm 
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848cc
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Fit a collision switch, sure these would be available elsewhere: http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1713.htm

They are easily reset and a VERY good idea.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:21 pm 
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998cc
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how do those things work? some form of shock sensor built in? if so wouldnt a large pot hole trigger it?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:25 pm 
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848cc
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They need quite a force to activate them, NEVER had one activate before, they have a ball bearing that (upon impact) will move and then break contact on a switch which will cut the power to your pump.

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