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clutch replacement, thinking of self attempt
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64931		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  andbat [ Tue Aug 10, 2010 1:18 pm ]
Post subject:  clutch replacement, thinking of self attempt
i'm considering a self attempted clutch replacement, she ahs been slipping for a while now. anyone wanna tell me how hard it is. if i have all day on a sunday will i complete it. my car is my income i use it to deliver pizza, so if i stuff it up i'm stuffed. any thoughts? what parts do i need to buy? any tips? should i buy from carkraft? are they cheapest?
finally

is okay to attemp this job parked on the road since i do not have a garage?
Author:  1018cc [ Tue Aug 10, 2010 1:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't think it's that hard, off the top of my head you will need a torque wrench, a flywheel puller (or a thick metal plate with 3 holes drilled in it and grade 8 bolts), axle stands, jack, various spanners etc

You can buy entire clutch kits which come with basically all of the parts you need (unless you also want to replace the lever arm, plunger etc). I don't think you could complete it on a Sunday because I would recommend getting the flywheel and pressure plate machined flat to ensure you don't get a clutch judder after you reinstall.

I did the clutch on Ash's car a while back and told her the same thing, after disassembling it 3 times she finally got the message that she should get the pressure plate & flywheel machined :roll:

P.s. I wouldn't do it on the side of the road, I like the creature comforts of a garage :wink:
Author:  mini_mad_matt [ Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would be hesistant to attempt a first time clutch replacement on the side of the road when you have a deadline for getting it finished. Yes the job is easy, and should only take you a couple of hours but only if you have the right gear.

If there is someone with a bit of knowledge/tools that can help you then by all means go ahead.

Tools you require:
- a few basic spanners/sockets
- flywheel puller (very important!) and tools to operate said puller
- 1 and 1/2 inch socket and good long breaker bar(5 to 6 foot long) of same drive size, (or with an adapter 1/2 inch to 3/4 etc)
- tension wrench/torque wrench capable of driving above socket.
- jack able to go under the gearbox


Items you "may" need:
- new locktab for flywheel bolt, or loctite
- clutch arm and pivot pins

If you replace the throw-out bearing dependent on type, you may need a washer or 2 to pack the new bearing out.


As for doing the job, its relatively easy.
- unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and move it out of the way
- remove the starter motor, depend on your solenoid you may need to disconect the battery
- unbolt the drivers side engine mount and jack up that side a bit
- unbolt the "wok" and remove from vehicle
- remove the clutch diaphragm, undo locktab on flywheel bolt and undo flywheel bolt with big bar and socket. You will need to hold the flywheel, I have a spanner that fits the ring gear nicely through the starter motor hole but you can use whatever works. Just make sure it won't fall out when your heaving on the bar.
- then you use your puller and off the flywheel pops. Beware as it can sometimes pop off with a lot of energy.

You may need the surfaces machined etc, but depending on how tight money is you can always just suck it and see. This also goes for wether you buy a clutch plate, or a clutch kit.

I think there are numerous threads about setting up the clutch assembly as well. And the flywheel needs to be torqued up to 115ft/lb
Author:  GT mowog [ Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Given your circumstances and facilities, have someone else do it for you.

mini_mad_matt wrote:
And the flywheel needs to be torqued up to (i think) 150lb/ft


Err, it's actually 115 ft/lbs.
Author:  mini_mad_matt [ Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
I knew it had a 1 and a 5. Thanks for clarifying
Author:  gafmo [ Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Actualy what I would do is get another fly wheel and Balance and back plate. Purchase new Clutch and pressure plate from KC and get the set up and balanced. This way you know you have it perfect and you can just swap it with the other set up and it will take you the 2 hours. I would also consider another good thrust bearing also
Author:  Drexxle [ Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:35 am ]
Post subject: 
DO NOT put a jack directly under the gearbox. They are NOT that strong, you can crack straight through the floor of the box.

Put a beam of wood on your jack first.

And i agree with gafmo, you can get a flywheel for $50 bux, get it machined and get ready for the swap over. The hardest thing for a newby is that you wont have a 1 1/2 socket with a bar long enough to crack the nut on the flywheel.

And you wont have the flywheel removing gear, the metal plate with the three bolts. The flywheel will be stuck on the crank arm solid. You will need to use the remover to crack it off.
Author:  Drewie [ Wed Aug 11, 2010 2:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
The workshop manuals advise to have the motor at TDC when poping the flywheel off in case the 'C' washer on the primary gear drops as the flywheel comes loose and causes damage. I have never seen a 'C' washer move, but it does say to have the motor at TDC as a precaution.
Better safe than sorry.
Author:  Rodney [ Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just to add to the drama......the bolts that go through the 'wok'.......

There's one at about the 7 o'clock position that's a bugger to get to if the engine is in the car. Hopefully, it's already been removed, but, when you re-assemble, leave this bolt out. There's plenty of others to hold the 'wok' on.

Good luck with it.
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