Hey all,
I know this has been discussed many, many times before - do I need to attach the water heating pipes to my inlet manifold?

As I undertand it, I SHOULD attach the heating because:
- it increases the atomisation of fuel, since there is less condensation on the manifold surfaces
- increased atomisation will increase economy
- the engine will hold it's tune better for different conditions

And I SHOULDN'T attach the heating because:
- a lower temperature at intake will increase the intake pressure
- a higher pressure will increase power
- they're only needed for carb icing issues

Now, I'm taking my clubman in to be properly tuned, sine I've stuck on a stage 1 kit (I put the kit on ages ago - just never got around to taking it in), so I want to make a desicion before taking it in, since changing this will change the tuning. Since it's a daily driver, I was leaning towards attaching the pipes.

So, which pipes? Can I just cut the pipe leading from the left of the engine to the right of the bulkhead (to the heater), and put the manifold in series? That would mean no additional pipes. :)

Any thoughts? Or any more reasons why I should and shouldn't?

BTW, I live in tassie - the weather gets cold here...

Hi

Since no one has commented. I have it connected on my mini which has a HIF44 and the water heated manifold. I also have a tap on the head which I can turn on or off at random.

I am in the central tablelands of NSW at about 700 metres about sea level, During winter we have quite extensive frosts and without it the mini took a very long time to warm up and carby icing was a real feature.

Opinions will be varied but I find useful during winter and its a simple matter of turning it off for summer.

Mike

Around Sydney I wouldn't bother but down where you are , I would hook it up like Mike did.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Alright, looks like a plan.

So, can I just cut the pipe that runs from the head to the heater and place the manifold in series? Or do I use different pipes?

Thats all I did - the hot water flow goes through the manifold and on into the heater.

Note - I have a tap on the head - not the useless thing on a clubby type heater.

Mike

Great - thanks for your help!

i have mine connected only on one side. the heater tap off the block on the left (looking into the engine bay) goes to the left side of the manifold, and the right side is just blocked off.

It helps with cold start in the early mornings, but here in the desert its pretty warm by the middle of the day.

So it gets a bit of heat, but doesnt have water flowing through it.

_________________
Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

Here in Tassie carb icing can be an issue on a long run when its cold and wet, so I definitely have mine hooked up.

In the hot weather I can just close the heater valve, although it doesn't seem to make much difference.

Tim

_________________
1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

i should add that i dont have a heater installed in the car. so theres no hoses going down through the firewall.

_________________
Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

So its at a plumbing cul-de-sac?

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Its designed for optimum atomisation fo fuel and fuel consumption, regardless of 'icing' conditions.
I wouldnt mess with it.

_________________
YDO005 1965 stock standard MORRIS MINI DELUXE

haha yeh i guess so, but no heater unit in the car, so its like blocking off the tap on the block. I have also been considering blocking off the hose that goes between the head and the block under the thermostat.

Any thoughts on that, then the water goes in one place and come out one place, rather than having a roadmap of pipes.

_________________
Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

There won't be any real water exchange in the manifold, there's no real reason to move. It will warm up, but more because of conductance than water transfer.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

ive seen quite a few minis with that hose not connected and the head blocked and the block blocked off. I guess it forces water through the head down through the block back to the radiator in one loop.

its a pain of a joint too, leaks, hard to replace easily, but dont know about daily driver, as most of the cars ive seen like this are fast road or race.

im leaving the manifold connected as is, works great, helps in the mornings, and also bit more efficient on the highways.

_________________
Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

While southwestern B.C. temperatures are moderated by the Pacific Ocean, whereas Tasmania lies in the colder Southern Ocean, all of Tasmania is closer to the equator than the B.C./Washinton/Idaho/Montana border at 49 North Latitude.

Here with hoses connected: head take-off at #4 to heater to intake to rad bottom hose - Fall to late Spring



Here with hoses connected: head take-off at #4 to auxillary rad to intake to rad bottom hose - early Summer to early Fall, when hot weather is encountered and mountains will be crossed under load. Can be partially or completely blocked off to suit (like oil cooler).



Hoses always connected to intake with coolant passing through year round.

_________________
Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!