Hello,

I know Phat Khat wrote a very good how to and I've read it but I a have some very basic questions that I can't seem to google for any reliable sources.

I want to eventually strip Lillee bare and bead/soda whatever blast it back to bare metal for a total ground up restoration. I've done bits and pieces over the years and I'm just about had it with previous owners'... lets say... lack of finess.

Lets just say I want a reasonably good finish, one that I can be proud of. Maybe not concourse winner but nice to any enthusiasts eyes. Most importantly I want it to last for another 20+ years (current restration was in 1995 so it's been 15yrs). I would of course want to do as much work on it as I can myself not only to save money but because it's my hobby! OK so talk me through the steps.

STRIP:
So I heard that sand blast is too rough and bead blast or soda blast is better? What have others done?

How can I transport the shell around while this is happenning? I'd probably want to strip her down myself in the garage. Take subframes out, strip interior etc. How have others moved body shells? I want the whole body evenly done in same colour, under and inside.

Who can do the blasting in Sydney? any recommendations? How much does it cost?

BODYWORK:
So once it's silver metal, does the strip shop paint it over with primer or does it come to me in bare metal?

I would want to do most of the repair and prep at home over several weeks/months so will she be OK sitting in primer for some time?

RESPRAY

I am sold on 2 pack, what can I expect to pay for a final respray if I do most of the prep work myself? I've been told to pay a little extra so that the painter does the final stages themselves for the best finish. What are the stages?? bog, weld, high fill primer, guide coat, sand, primer?? wipe down?? 2 Pack?? Clear coat??

I have more questions but that's a start

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

RESPRAY

You cant spray 2pac at home (i think you knew that). Some sprayers (most i have heard of) wont spray something someone else has prepared as their reputation is based on your bodywork.

I got a quote at a local shop recently here in Cowra (ball park figure and car unseen) they said for a car that they dont need to replace any panels or weld and i think fairly straight. was around $4000.

I thought that was pretty good

Dont know if that helps or not

But why dont you have a go at spraying it yourself in acrylic, Follow Phat Cats instructions and use your common sence and it will work out, its not that hard

Brenton

_________________

STRIP:
Sand blast is rough and could potentially warp panels with heat, Soda blast is the best way. stay away from chemical dipping as some parts are bound to not dry correctly. i.e. inside sealed seams.

Best way to transport is on a rotisserie, you sand blaster will thank you, failing that I have mine on a pallet with castor wheels. Its uncomfortably low though.

Not being in sydney I cant recomend, but prices vary hugely.

BODYWORK:
The strip shop will either prime it or oil it or maybe even leave it bare.
When comparing prices also compare this.
Sitting in primer will be fine indefinitely, anything else I wouldn't trust for more than a few days max.

RESPRAY
Re spray will vary hugely too, depending on colour and everything else.
Dont cheap out here, pay someone with all the facilities who wont outsource and who isnt overworked and has done whole cars before not just cut and shut insurance jobs.
Im looking at a local tafe, the labors free and they will do a proper job just for the experience. Of course theres a real risk of some no talent bum doing it but its a gamble.

just a couple for you.
Dont know which blasting grit is best, I've not done it yet.
There is a ppg 2K eurathane primer on the market, that is rather good, and a lot more versatile than I thought as it turns out.
Spray this, and do your repairs after. Lay down your bog over the top, spray bog, etc. Then spray over the top again with the eurathane primer. Esentually sandwiching the bog between the layers!
Once your happy with the repairs, and have got all your primer down, its up to personal preference from there between DG (direct gloss) or COB (clear over base).
Personally, although I use DG all the time, the best is COB!
Exact same concept as acrylic. Spray your colour down first, then your clear. And as a point of interest, the base/colour in COB is no more dangerous than acrylic as well!
For the clear coat, go with PPG K221!
Incredible clearcoat! Self levels, and gives a mirror finish every time! Cant recommend highly enough.
Hope this helps a little, but remember, theyre just my preferences, and I have the use of a spray booth.
You can search around and hire one if you wish to go this way. Some smash repairers will hire them out!

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

Hi Lillee,

Check out my Gallery which I believe is similar to what you are planning to do.
I have stripped the car of all parts and then used paint stripper to remove the bulk of the paint prior to taking the body to a sand blaster at Brookvale who used garnet to remove the rust. I asked for him not to blast the flat panels and only do the edges. Body was then sprayed by the blaster with a Wattyl Epoxy primer to prevent further rust.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Hay Chong I'v used Impact Glass 9 Romford Rd, Blacktown NSW 9671 3696 for Alloy & Steel wheels. They do Sand & Glass blasting and I haven't had a problem with you. When I collected my last set of wheels they had a Bedford Ute getting ready to be blasted. I would give them a call atleast. Soda blasting by memory their is one down towards Taren Point. To move it around i'v seen people using a pallets on wheels which I can supply to your home any time.

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I thought Bog was meant to be always layed over bare metal?

Is spray bog the same as hi-fill primer / spray putty ?


Oh and i have heard soda blasting doesnt touch rust either.

_________________

Garnet works a treat.

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Thats why I was saying that it is a lot more versatile than I originally thought. After finding this out I had a very long talk with my ppg rep, including lots of questions!
And yeh, spray bog is spray poly.
Hi-fill is something different.
Here is the opening statement on the eurathane product information sheet.
Product information
EPOXY URETHANE
PRIMER
Product Description
410-48248 Epoxy Urethane Primer is a two component adhesion promoting epoxy urethane primer
designed to be used over bare metal surfaces under polyester spray and body fillers to protect against
corrosion. It also has excellent adhesion to steel, aluminum and galvanized steel. It should be used
whenever optimum corrosion protection is required.

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

[quote="Bubbacluby
But why dont you have a go at spraying it yourself in acrylic, Follow Phat Cats instructions and use your common sence and it will work out, its not that hard

Brenton[/quote]

No 2 pack is definately for me. Lillee is no way an original concourse winner. She was Cadet Blue to begin with. I am not going to pretend to make her factory, given that up years ago. I like 2 pack: very very tough, great finish, I don't mine the candy coat look, it's fine. I am thinking clear coat finish for even more bling.

I fear that there is A LOT of work to be done to the body once I soda blast it back to bare metal like Mike (mtsmini) has done and it will be $4000 just to prep! I know that the boot floor and battery box needs replacing, and A panels etc. in fact there's some panel beating to do I know for sure. Most of the rear end is OK surprisingly.

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

What's garnet?

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Garnet, derived from mined Almandite and Andradite mineral deposits, is a semi-precious stone. Once extracted, it is processed and then screened to the desired grade.

The combination of the high density and physical properties make Garnet nature’s most highly efficient, effective and safe abrasive for both wet and dry blasting applications.


Advantages of Garnet for Blast Cleaning
Wide range of grades and composition available for different jobs and profiles
Superior surface profile – garnet grains create a uniform profile virtually free of embedment, providing an excellent surface for coating adhesion
Cost–effective - highly effective, low consumption
Non-toxic – inert and natural, crystalline silica levels are less than 1%
Recyclable up to 5 times
Low dust levels – improved operator visibility
Easy cleanup
Non-reactant – will not interfere with your coatings
Non-porous – will not draw moisture

_________________
Mini, its in my blood........

For transport, I have made a cradle out of surplus pine studs and castors before. It was the right size and shape to cradle the sills but the front and rear of the car was too low to go up & down ramps. I no longer have this one.

Lots of people use pallets with castors or transport on the rotisserie as said above.

Soon, I am collecting a painted shell. It is already on a pallet and has arch flares on it so I have no easy way of lifting it and getting it off a tilt-tray to my shed in the back yard. So, last weekend I made up these from some old subframes, scrap steel and $19 supercheap trolleys.









They'll let me get it lowered onto the subbies with the forklift, then roll on/off the tilt tray and across my (soft, it's raining) lawn and into the shed.

The front one steers. I only sacrificed one trolley, the other can get it's axle back. The scrap will come off the subbies and welds ground away, good as new.

M

And a dab of red paint on the trolleys and theyre good to return.

_________________
Simplify and add lightness

Garnet blasting is extremely good for removing rust and bog, its quick, its cheap, its easy. Provided that the guy holding the gun isn't a total monkey (and chances are,,, he probably is a complete knuckle dragger) it "should" be fine for general paint removal.. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it provided its done correctly. If its not, then you've got problems. It does gernerate a lot of heat, so there is a lot of potential for panel destortion (if you stand there too long hammering away at one area of course), it is of course a lot more aggressive... I'm sure every one knows a guy, who has a friend, whose brothers uncles aunt's son's friend sent a car for blasting and got it back with paper thin panels.

I tend to get my stuff soda blasted, then let the guys look over it and ONLY garnet blast (bloody hell kids, sand blast you jagon junkies!) the parts that need it.

Soda blasting is still some what new tech in this country, the Yanks have been doing it for years... but its only been available for about 10ish years here... so its still very expensive AND there are a lot of places that don't know how to use the stuff.....see, with soda, its very very fine. Its powder. So as soon as you pull the trigger, suddenly the visablity becomes zero. To combat this, a lot of places do their blasting "wet" which turns the settling powder into a paste that then works its way into all the nooks and crannies that kirby mentioned earlier.... not a good look make sure you talk to the guys about how they run their set up and make sure they use dust extraction and not water. I use a place called "Sydney Soda Blasting" their down at Seven Hills in the industrial area. The last mini I had done cost $2600 (soda and garnet)..... HOWEVER, I have recently met a guy who owns a shop somewhere in south sydney who reckons he can do a mini for about $1800.... I have not used him, I don't know anything about his quality of work etc... but if you like I can find out his details if you like?



Some places do and some do not prime cars after blasting. If its been soda blasted it can (no joke) sit around for months and months on end with out paint and it won't rust.. regardless of humidity.... I have a bonnet in my shed that was done 18 months ago and inspite of rain and humid crappy wether.. it has ONLY rusted in the places that I have touched with my bare hands (must be the oil in your skin). Just ask the guys at what ever place you take it too about how they finish the job (primer or no primer).

If you use 2k epoxy primer, shouldn't be a problem. Still not really ideal to leave it sit in primer too long without paint though. If you use Acrylic primer, acrylic etch or acrylic high fill (which it doesn't sound like you will) do NOT let it sit longer than 4-5 monts or it will suck in moisture like a spounge.




Stages are (in order) beat, weld, beat weld, bog, high fill, guide coat, prepsol, tac rag, Base, Clear.

Like someone else already said, some places will not go anywhere near you're car if you've done the prep work. I refuse(refused) to touch anyones car who's done their own prep work. Only reason is that all to often, they haven't done some thing right and the paint fries up or ends up with some kind of defect...

or...

They do a pathetic job of their prep work, and it only becomes apparent once there is paint on the car... so "naturally" because I painted it... its my fault that they didn't feather the edges of the bog properly or the panels are all ripplely because they didn't use a long block for sanding large flat panels... So of course being ""my"" fault, they try and rope me into re-doing their shoty prep work for free..... Sorry bucko AIN'T HAPPENING!!!!

What were the other questions?