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 Post subject: Wheel alginment sequence
PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:03 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
OK I am planning to tackle the wheel alignment this weekend ( per David Rosenthal's method - stay tuned for a How To)

I'm thinking
1- using Hi-Los set ride height all round
2- set front and back wheels parallel to body
3- set up rear wheels - toe in - camber
4- set up front - toe out - caster - camber

Go back and check everything and adjust if necessary

Have I missed anything? Sequence right?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:38 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Greensborough, Victoria
Wombat wrote:

1- using Hi-Los set ride height all round
2- set front and back wheels parallel to body
3- set up rear wheels - camber - toe
4- set up front - camber - caster - toe


I rectified the order for you Wombat :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:20 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
you will find that if you try to set the front camber first ,,, & then the caster,,,

or if you try to set the caster first & then the camber

that your first setting will then be way out once you set the 2nd

if you get my drift

if you cange the camber,,, you have then just changed the caster too

& vise versa

you need to "jiggle" them both (bit by bit) at the same time till you have both right,,, then set the toe

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:53 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: wasleys S.A.
so you must have made a set of wheel aglinement bars :)
Matt is right if you have the usual mini "modified suspension from the usual places" as each adjustment will effect the other.

I probably did not explain that I do not run adjustable bottom arms so the caster angle can be set, then the camber is set. My camber adjuster is built into the top arm and moves the whole arm to the required setting. The top arm can also have the center pivot changed to set up the geometry for a lowered car.

Once you have it spot on then use the bars to have a look at the suspension changes by simulating cornering,bump steer and akerman turn. etc,etc :shock: :shock:

If you really want to have some fun give the back a little more toe out. changes your driving style but a lot more fun in corners. I just finished [apart from some minor fiddling] setting up Craig Goss's mini with some bike carbs and he had fun on the dirt road at home :lol: :lol:

anyway see how it goes David

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 8:11 am 
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1275cc
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just on this subject (sorry to hijack the thread David) what are the numbers all the wheels need to be set out? I know they are different to other cars... only reason I ask is I am going to my mechanical workshop b4 i go to SA, and it will be one of the jobs they have to do.

Is there anything I need to tell them what to do, and what not to do? Something they wouldn't know because mini's are "different"?

thanks in advance

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 10:34 am 
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1360cc
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
Front

Toe OUT: 1/16"

Camber: 1 degree negative. If you have to error, go less rather than more. 1/2 negative still good.Try to get the same side-to-side, but not as critical to do so as caster.

Caster: 3.5 degrees positive. Get caster as close to equal side-to-side as you can.

Rear:

Toe IN: 1/16". Error towards more rather than less.

Camber: Straight up. slightly negative if you have to.

Bear in mind only front toe out is adjustable on an original spec Mini - rest can only be adjusted after fitting adjustable suspension components

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My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:53 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:51 pm
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Location: Brisvages and the Goldie, the place to be..
cheers thanks for that David. The van has all adjustable suspension gear, and hi lows, etc etc, so all good :)

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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