i forget which one is for what?

0.700" for brakes?
0.750" for clutch?

That, and does anyone know where to get decent cylinders for a good price?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Try Karcraft, they will also tell you which size is correct.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Correct. Either Karcraft or Mini King.

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Thanks Mick, Thanks GT

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

I have several spare m/cyl's , all but 2 are marked as .7", 1 of the other lockheed ones has the numbers ground off, would it have had .75 stamped on it if thats what it was?, and as for the PBR unit , it has 15A1G stamped on the side and 30G2 stamped on the flat on the back of it. Can any body ID the PBR unit for me please .

Interestingly, the Leyland Blue Book states that all except 850 were 0.70".

The PBR Catalogue lists the P/N for the single circuit 0.70" Brake M/C (assembly) as P6608, for the Deluxe and early Moke and P/N P6604 for Mini K, Mini 1100, Late Cooper S and Clubman GT, but only up to Car No. 694 (for the GT), from 695 they went to a 0.75" (according to PBR).

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Leyland Black Book has numerous errors and omissions in it.

Brakes: I think you are right above, except-
997 Cooper I'm pretty sure was 0.75 MC with a hydraulic intensifier.
The 998 Cooper MC was .625" , with no servo or hydraulic intensifier.

Clutches- which ones were .75" and which were 0.70"? I've only found 0.70 clutch MCs on some Clubbies with the plastic reservoirs.
.75 works,
.70 is a PITA if there is any wear at all in the linkage, even with no wear it barely worked properly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's why I have a Blue Book, it is a hard covered book and has fewer errors than that of the Black!

My PBR Catalogue is from 68 to 81. The Clutch M/C's were 3/4" up to:

Mini K & Mini 1100 Car No 3199
Clubman and 1100 Car No. 1047
Deluxe Car No. 5275
MKII Cooper S Car No. 986

After the above Car Nos., they went to 0.70" Clutch M/C, and the following were from the start of that model;-

Clubman GT
Clubman Mini S

When everything is new and working 100%, I actually prefer the 0.70" Clutch M/C, it is a little lighter and a better (finer) feel to it, but as soon as something wears a little bit, you don't have enough travel.

The Cooper Models are not listed in the PBR Book, however the Blue Book (when I put my glasses on) shows the 850 had a 0.75" M/C to Car No. 28042 and the 998 Cooper had a 5/8" Brake M/C and the 997 Cooper had 0.70" Brake M/C to Car 2054 then went to 5/8".

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No doubt about you blokes , your a wealth of good imformation, thanks.

Slightly different topic, but i was recently led to believe that a brake master cylinder in a later model clubman was dual piston. Is this true? If so, can anyone confirm which model it was? As part of a 4EFTE install the engineer would prefer i changed to a dual circuit unit...

Cheers!

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Answer the Question....
BUT always Question the Answer

The Mini went to a Tandem Brake set-up in 1977 and the Moke did the same about 1978. As master cylinder go, they'll make your brakes work, yes but as for being fail safe (if one circuit fails) they don't work.

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Why won't it work if one circuit fails? Are they not a true dual circuit/piston master cylinder? I'm assuming it is two pistons in series, i.e. in-line.

If, for instance, the rear circuit line leaked would that mean the front circuit would leak or no longer work? If so, how?

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Answer the Question....
BUT always Question the Answer

Yes, they are a true 'Tandem' two piston cylinder. I've not yet measured but it seems that you need about another inch of pedal travel. Remember that theortically with any Tandem Master Cylinder, that failure of one circuit will mean that you have lost 50% + of your M/C Travel.

There is also a 'Brake Fail' switch on these cylinders and I have never been able to get one of these to work. There is a very small piston assy that works on balanced pressure, if it becomes un-balanced, it should move and allow the switch to trip. On all other cars, these need resetting after bleeding the brakes. These ones don't even move the balance piston! I have also fitted a few new ones and these are no different.

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This is an exploded diagram of the UK one. The Oz one was similar;

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cool, thanks! Now just gotta get hold of one to keep the engineer happy!

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Answer the Question....
BUT always Question the Answer