I have heard there are good and bad Hi Lo's which are which?

http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... ucts_id=61
and
http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... cts_id=164

Are these the better quality ones, since they're pricier?

Or these ripspeed ones
http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1084.htm

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

best ones are made by Fred Sayers.

Those hi-lo pics are identical. even the shadows are the same.

Ring Josh @ miniimports 0419396877

The one he sells are the ones ive always used, there machined, not cast like alot of the others ive seen. Cheaply priced to boot!

Ring him, ring him nooooww

-Cam

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IS NOW BACK ONLINE AFTER SOMETIME..... SORRY TO ALL, FOR NOT REPLYING TO PM'S!!

Just curious, your statement implies that being machined (from a billet) is better than being cast. Why's that..? From my vague recollection of the small amount of materials study I did, casting and forging gave stronger results than machining... It was to do with the grains in the metal flowing with the expected loading (given you shape something for its loads), whereas anything machined will have the grains cut everywhere... I thought that was why tools (spanners, etc) are forged, not machined..?

Oh, and Adam, in your first two links, if that's what you're comparing, the difference is that the dearer set are for the Rear. The $20 difference is the cost of the Rods (not pictured in the link) to connect the HiLo to the knuckle - completely unnecessary at the front, pretty crucial at the rear!

mine are the best

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

The trouble with cast aluminium alloy (e.g. standard mini trumpets) is that it tends to be low pressure cast using Al-Zn alloy (or random scrap metal) and has a lot of inclusions and porosity, with poor grain structure. Generally poor quality.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

As per AWD, what he said! AND ive seen cast ones break, havnt yet seen a machined jobbie die yet!

-Cam

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IS NOW BACK ONLINE AFTER SOMETIME..... SORRY TO ALL, FOR NOT REPLYING TO PM'S!!

Wow.. i've never seen or been told of one ours EVER breaking.... weird

If I did ever get that sort of complaint- the ones I sell would be all taken off the shelf!

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Andrew@Minisport, South Australia
Ph: 08-8177-1275
Skype: minisport.au

www.minisport.com.au
Minisport for all your mini parts

For most normal use just about any HiLo available would be OK.

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I've just fitted a pair of the Minisport front hilos I've had sitting around for years, they are good quality.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

It is the progressive shape that does it.

Yep.

Karcraft has a good set including the rear hilo bars for around $150 (i think?)

Sitting in my moke now they are

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

that is why I said Fred Sayers. He has been making them for a loooong time.

I only said Matt to keep him happy.

But they are a great idea. It would make a big difference. You are changing the variable rate of the spring. Most people don't realise that it is possible.

I don't know why more people don't look into them instead of trying to redesign the whole thing with coils.