Ring Josh @ miniimports 0419396877
The one he sells are the ones ive always used, there machined, not cast like alot of the others ive seen. Cheaply priced to boot!
Ring him, ring him nooooww
-Cam
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| The good Hi-Los https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67069 |
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| Author: | adamstuart [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | The good Hi-Los |
I have heard there are good and bad Hi Lo's which are which? http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... ucts_id=61 and http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... cts_id=164 Are these the better quality ones, since they're pricier? Or these ripspeed ones http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1084.htm |
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| Author: | TK [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 8:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
best ones are made by Fred Sayers. |
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| Author: | floss [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 9:04 am ] |
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Those hi-lo pics are identical. even the shadows are the same. |
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| Author: | MiNi MuLiShA [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 9:28 am ] |
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Ring Josh @ miniimports 0419396877 The one he sells are the ones ive always used, there machined, not cast like alot of the others ive seen. Cheaply priced to boot! Ring him, ring him nooooww
-Cam
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| Author: | Tadhg [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 11:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
MiNi MuLiShA wrote: The one he sells are the ones ive always used, there machined, not cast like alot of the others ive seen.
Just curious, your statement implies that being machined (from a billet) is better than being cast. Why's that..?  From my vague recollection of the small amount of materials study I did, casting and forging gave stronger results than machining... It was to do with the grains in the metal flowing with the expected loading (given you shape something for its loads), whereas anything machined will have the grains cut everywhere... I thought that was why tools (spanners, etc) are forged, not machined..?
Oh, and Adam, in your first two links, if that's what you're comparing, the difference is that the dearer set are for the Rear.  The $20 difference is the cost of the Rods (not pictured in the link) to connect the HiLo to the knuckle - completely unnecessary at the front, pretty crucial at the rear!
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 12:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
mine are the best 
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 12:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The trouble with cast aluminium alloy (e.g. standard mini trumpets) is that it tends to be low pressure cast using Al-Zn alloy (or random scrap metal) and has a lot of inclusions and porosity, with poor grain structure. Generally poor quality. |
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| Author: | MiNi MuLiShA [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 12:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Tadhg wrote: MiNi MuLiShA wrote: The one he sells are the ones ive always used, there machined, not cast like alot of the others ive seen. Just curious, your statement implies that being machined (from a billet) is better than being cast. Why's that..? From my vague recollection of the small amount of materials study I did, casting and forging gave stronger results than machining... It was to do with the grains in the metal flowing with the expected loading (given you shape something for its loads), whereas anything machined will have the grains cut everywhere... I thought that was why tools (spanners, etc) are forged, not machined..? Oh, and Adam, in your first two links, if that's what you're comparing, the difference is that the dearer set are for the Rear. The $20 difference is the cost of the Rods (not pictured in the link) to connect the HiLo to the knuckle - completely unnecessary at the front, pretty crucial at the rear! As per AWD, what he said! AND ive seen cast ones break, havnt yet seen a machined jobbie die yet! -Cam
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| Author: | My_Mini_Rocks [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 1:45 pm ] |
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Wow.. i've never seen or been told of one ours EVER breaking.... weird If I did ever get that sort of complaint- the ones I sell would be all taken off the shelf! |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:43 pm ] |
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For most normal use just about any HiLo available would be OK. |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 3:37 pm ] |
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I've just fitted a pair of the Minisport front hilos I've had sitting around for years, they are good quality. |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 4:12 pm ] |
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TheMiniMan wrote: mine are the best
It is the progressive shape that does it. 
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| Author: | mattsmadmini [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 4:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
GT mowog wrote: For most normal use just about any HiLo available would be OK.
Yep. Karcraft has a good set including the rear hilo bars for around $150 (i think?) Sitting in my moke now they are
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| Author: | TK [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: "It is the progressive shape that does it."
that is why I said Fred Sayers. He has been making them for a loooong time. |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:36 pm ] |
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TK wrote: Quote: "It is the progressive shape that does it." that is why I said Fred Sayers. He has been making them for a loooong time. I only said Matt to keep him happy.
But they are a great idea. It would make a big difference. You are changing the variable rate of the spring. Most people don't realise that it is possible. I don't know why more people don't look into them instead of trying to redesign the whole thing with coils. |
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