1071 wrote:
Early Ss came from the factory with rubber unis...
Cheers, Ian
Cheers, Ian
They were good enough to win Bathurst in `66.
Just keep oil off `em, they are allergic to it.
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| Disc Conversion https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67096 |
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| Author: | seifer [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Disc Conversion |
Hey Huys, Ive spent a few days searching all this so dont jump all over me for asking. My 71 Clubby is in need of a disc conversion which from what i can tell means changing over from my rubber uni's (thank buggery for that). Ill be taking the engine out over the next few days to paint my engine bay and also engine so I figure I might do the diff change over whilst I am at it. From what I have read all i need to change is the inner and outer axles? If this is the case where do I need to/can I buy these from fairly cheaply? Also what price should I pay for an 8.4 inch conversion kit, im thinking around 700 is fair? Does any one have any diagrams of a mini diff or even instructions for changing the axles over? Im located in Sydney if that is of any assistance. Cheers guys, |
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| Author: | miniobsessed [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you're fitting discs you don't need to change your driveshafts. The new CV's will fit on your existing driveshafts. Not saying you shouldn't change to pot joints but you don't have to. To change to pots you more than likely have to remove the engine as you will need to remove the diff which is pretty much impossible in the car. Once you have the diff out you will need to dismantle it and replace the output shafts for the pot joint type. Probably not a bad idea to replace your spider gears and diff pin (with good quality items) at this point too as they will more than likely be worn. Then you will obviously need a set of pot joints and pot joint type driveshafts... |
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| Author: | Mick [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Disc Conversion |
seifer wrote: Hey Huys,
Ive spent a few days searching all this so dont jump all over me for asking. My 71 Clubby is in need of a disc conversion which from what i can tell means changing over from my rubber uni's (thank buggery for that). Ill be taking the engine out over the next few days to paint my engine bay and also engine so I figure I might do the diff change over whilst I am at it. From what I have read all i need to change is the inner and outer axles? If this is the case where do I need to/can I buy these from fairly cheaply? Also what price should I pay for an 8.4 inch conversion kit, im thinking around 700 is fair? Does any one have any diagrams of a mini diff or even instructions for changing the axles over? Im located in Sydney if that is of any assistance. Cheers guys, No, the unis don't necessarily need to be changed out. The shafts are compatible with discs or drums. You only need the disc brakes themselves. The shafts will insert into the disc brake CVs the same as a drum brake CV. This means you can rethink if you want to change the inner unis out for another type, although this is not necessarily a bad idea if you have rubber joints. Therefore, you just need the disc brake conversion kit. Nothing from the drum brake comes across except the steering arms. You will also need the flexible lines for a disc brake, they're slightly longer than drums. So there will be the hub, caliper, drive flange, disc, CV, brake line, CV boots and tapered washer for each disc brake side, and you might as well get new ball joints as well. Second hand disc brake setups might sell around 700, new are found for about the 1000 - 1300 mark. |
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| Author: | Irish Yobbo [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There was a thread here a while ago about disc conversions from mini mania in the US for about $900, and I was informed that Josh at miniimports sells them for not much more than this (don't know how much more though!). |
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| Author: | seifer [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 2:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Cheers for your help gus, that actually makes a lot of sense. Might just upgrade to the QL5000s and go from there. Thanks again. |
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| Author: | VulcanBB18 [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'll just add a +1 for the QH5000s, I've run rubber unis + 7.5 discs for some years and as I didn't have a 100hp monster (just a 65hp -ish modded 998) the rubber unis lasted pretty well. The QHs are even less hassle. cheers Jacob |
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| Author: | 1071 [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Early Ss came from the factory with rubber unis... Cheers, Ian |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
1071 wrote: Early Ss came from the factory with rubber unis...
Cheers, Ian They were good enough to win Bathurst in `66.
Just keep oil off `em, they are allergic to it. |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Sat Nov 20, 2010 6:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
drmini in aust wrote: They were good enough to win Bathurst in `66.
Just keep oil off `em, they are allergic to it. I thought that they had gone to the all steel Hardie Spicer Uni's in about 64 or 65, so when did they change? Yeah, the rubber joints aren't as bad as they are made out to be, but as the Doc says, keep the oil off them. The diffs always seem to last longer on rubber joints. |
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| Author: | MrFail [ Sat Nov 20, 2010 8:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did the swap from rubber crosses to the nylon/metal ones on my clubby back in the day. It was easy as. I actually have a funny story about it. 
So i changed them over and chucked the wheels back on and took it for a test drive up the road. i get a few hundred meters up the road and it starts making alot of noise like the u bolts are loose. I thought thats wierd, as i thought i tightened them all up. so i slowly limp it home. The noise gets worse and worse, i keep driving but go slower and slower. Then about 50m from my house a wheel falls off. 
The moral of the story.....Tighten your wheel nuts 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
GT mowog wrote: drmini in aust wrote: They were good enough to win Bathurst in `66. Just keep oil off `em, they are allergic to it. I thought that they had gone to the all steel Hardie Spicer Uni's in about 64 or 65, so when did they change? Change was in 68/69, slightly after the change to the 4 synchro box. |
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
"one" of the biggest problems with rubber unis (apart from oil stuffing them) was the fact that soooo many people would jack the car up,,, change the unis , tighten them up with the wheels hanging down,,, then lower the car back onto the ground now this makes the unis "Constantly" twisted up, the entire time, from then on the trick is to have the axles at std ride height (as if the car were on it`s wheels the ground) & tighten them up then this way the unis are in a relaxed state & can happilly last for as long as they were intended to so,,, there you go |
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
oh & i have always thought that only the first 600 or 700 (ish) Aussie "S"`s came with rubber unis My dad or John Shmidt will know for sure |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
OK I was probably wrong in post above, as April 66 it happened in UK. Source: Original Mini Cooper, John Parnell. |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Sat Nov 20, 2010 11:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
TheMiniMan wrote: oh & i have always thought that only the first 600 or 700 (ish) Aussie "S"`s came with rubber unis
My dad or John Shmidt will know for sure Yeah, I thought it was pretty early on too. I knew they did fit them is the 'S' but soon after introduction went to the steelies. I've not worked on a real lot of early Cooper S, but I've not seen any fitted to them, granted they could well had been changed by owners at some point. |
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