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 Post subject: Steering rack rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 6:19 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
How do I tell the difference between the different racks?
Which one would be easier and cheaper to rebuild?
And what type is best suited for 10" wheels?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:00 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I like the original Australian racks.
They are marked Cam Gears Australia and the rack inside is bigger diameter than the UK ones. (it is actually a short version of the Morris 1100 rack).
Karcraft carries all the wear parts you need- other places do too.
rack bush (use the poly one these days)
pinion bearings (2) (but often are still fine)
boot kit
rack tierod locknut (2)
wave washer (2)
pinion oil seal

I use wormdrive hoseclamps on the rack body (or original steel clamps) NOT cableties!! And I fill them with gear oil, NOT grease.
All the grease filled ones I have stripped have been knackered inside due to lack of lube. :cry:
The manufacturer always recommended 90-140 gear oil, but Leyland decided later on to use grease instead.

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 Post subject: Sterring rack
PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:14 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:21 pm
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Location: Perth
I've got one for sale if you want. No idea what it's worth.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 6:31 pm 
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
Now I NEED a rack but I still don't know what I have in the shed.
I have 5 that say "cams gears, Australia pat number ........" these take 2 and 1/3 turns lock to lock.
I also have 3 that say "cams gears, World pat pending" Two of these take 2 and 1/8 turns lock to lock and one takes 2 and 1/3 turns.
So what do I have?
What should I get rebuilt?
And is their a difference between moke and mini racks as I have a feeling some of these may have come out of mokes :? .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 6:44 pm 
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The CAM GEARS ones are the only ones. The others might make nice ornament for the wall of the pool room.

All CAM GEARS ones were the same between Mini and Moke, but the ones you have (rare!) that are 2 1/8 turn or UK Racks modified by Zetland for use in the early 13" Wheel Mokes. They put lock stops in them to stop the wheels scubbing. Funny thing is the Poms did the same thing when they released the Rovers Minis with 13" Wheels.

Parts are just not available for any of the UK Racks and they ain't that good anyway.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:38 pm 
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
So the Moke ones, are they any different to late moke racks? and are the worth anything or do they just get treated as any old rack?

Also what is a half good rack worth? (before a rebuild).

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:21 pm 
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I stripped a cam gears `world patents' one recently, it was a UK made rack, the rack inside is smaller diameter than the Oz ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:30 pm 
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Well that backs up what GT said about them being imported and moded at Zetland.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:38 pm 
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Kenno if you don't have a spare rack,
talk to Mini King, ask John what a rebuilt Oz rack is worth with no donor rack.
He has rebuilt stock Oz Mini racks and also some I built with M1100 tierods on them (to fit bigwheel Mokes better).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 5:01 am 
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If it ain't one of these;-

Image

STOP now!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:52 am 
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GT mowog wrote:
If it ain't one of these;-

Image

STOP now!

I agree.
There is also an Oz part number stamped on the gear housing of these, at the other end of rack.
Forget all the other racks- these days they can't be fixed here. No parts....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:01 am 
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Location: UK
Hum,

This is interesting,

does any one know size of the larger rack?

Also how much does one of these "good" racks go for?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:11 am 
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mini13 wrote:
Hum,

This is interesting,

does any one know size of the larger rack?

Also how much does one of these "good" racks go for?

rack diameter is .875"

PM me for pricing to do YOUR rack.

I'm not sure what Mini King charges exchange, ring him and ask.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 3:20 pm 
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Location: Narre Warren
Sorry if this is a hijack, but on the topic of steering racks and rebuilds, do you need the friction strips when re-fitting the U-bolts. These seem to be hard to find for the proper ones or do most people make them up themselves. In addition, when the rack is re-fitted, is there supposed to be any padding between the rack and the body. Mine had some sort of gasket-type material which was pretty much decomposed when I removed mine.

Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 3:41 pm 
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ByteSize wrote:
Sorry if this is a hijack, but on the topic of steering racks and rebuilds, do you need the friction strips when re-fitting the U-bolts. These seem to be hard to find for the proper ones or do most people make them up themselves. In addition, when the rack is re-fitted, is there supposed to be any padding between the rack and the body. Mine had some sort of gasket-type material which was pretty much decomposed when I removed mine.

Thanks


Re-fitting the friction strips is a good idea. No reason why you couldn't make some (they are about 2mm thick) but why not put a post in the Wanted Section of the Forum. Someones bound to have some.

The bit of foam that you mention was around the pinion shaft and was a weather seal between the body of the rack and the floor of the car. They do work and stop water coming in through the hole where the pinion comes through the floor. I'd suggest replacing it. They are available new, but you can make one from some medium density foam rubber about 12mm thick or even an old thong!

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