What do I need to do to remove the rack? I know about the internal nuts and steering column and that the subframe needs to be dropped out at the rear. I just need to know how much I need to loosen the sub frame? Do I need to undo the engine steadies?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

When I did mine a few years ago I dropped the exhaust off the LCB, left the std engine steady on the block intact. I have remote, so no top steady.
It needs to come down a couple of inches at the back.
If you have the 4 tower bolts (not studs) they must come right out, and loosen but don't remove the 2 front bolts.

[edit] I think I undid the rear remote mount too.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've always undone the front and rear of the subframe and then the tower bolts. I've always found the subframe needs to come down square. Maybe - Maybe (if yr lucky) with tower bolts instead of studs your could get away with leaving the fronts done up.

You'll need to take the carbie(s) off and maybe undo the clutch slave, but most of the time this is not needed.

If you've got a remote shift, that have to come off. Rod shift's I leave in place.

_________________

I've done as the other guys suggest, it can take a bit of levering to open the gap up enough, I didn't remove the carb but have since heard about people breaking the jet.

_________________
Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

I did it without the engine in the car - lot easier

_________________
David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Yeah mine is going in at Xmas when the 1412 stroker comes out and the HIPO 1360 goes back in.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I do it on my Hoist less than 2 hours and it's done. Last one I did was on My Moke. I was dreading doing it and then it was so easy.

_________________
DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I got a hoist, How do you do yours?
So far I've got the car on the hoist and 4 scissor jacks supporting the sub frame. As soon as the bolts are undone the hoist and car will go up leaving the subby, engine and remote change shifter on the deck.

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

The rack has five holding points:

1. Ball joints at either end x 2
2. U bolts on the body x 2
3. Bolt clamp at base of steering column

Remove the ball joints from the hubs/steering arms, remove the steering column pinch bolt (you have to remove it - it has a slot that the bolt slides through that may prevent the rack from being pulled out) and then knock out the two u bolts (you have to knock them out completely).

The rack should now pull out.

Reverse to fit.

It's a work of art. If you are going to strip it - don't lose the spacers etc!! Also, I used some loctite sealer on the back plate (and between the spacers) to seal it.

_________________
Regards,

Mike
"He who dies with the most toys wins."

Sorry mtsmini I was aiming my "how do you do yours" question at Convertible Mini referring to his technique on removing the rack with the car on a hoist.

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I just threw mine together to move the car when we shifted - now that the time is approaching to set it up properly is there any special technique to get the overhauled rack with new long shaft ends properly lined up? Measure each tie rod and get same length ? count treads ? what do you do?

_________________
David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

First thing I do is centre the rack in the body. Then 'centre' the Steering Wheel, by this I mean Centre The Rack. I usually turn the wheel to one stop the count back to the other, then go back half way. Make sure at this point that the coloumn and then the Steering Wheel is truely centred. The column needs to be done to be sure the blinker canceller is in the right place.

Then adjust each rod end to give the desired toe out. As you get close, turn the steering wheel 2 or 3 times to let the wheels relax for an accurate measurement.

_________________

Soooo.............

Rack adjusts toe in/out
Tie rods adjusts caster
and bottom arm adjusts camber ..............(light comes on)

_________________
David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!