G'day,
I know I'm not the first person to try to fix the slop in a remote gear change mechanism, I know there is very little wear inside the g/box but too much for my liking outside, I don't have an exploded view or rebuild how to so can anybody help please, it's an 83 Mini Mayfair,
Joe.

An 83 Mini is rod change, not remote shift (which was a cast alloy housing extension of the box, used up until 1973).
There was a recent thread here on refurbishing the rod change shifter box.
It is possible to re-bush them, and the connector sleeve onto the gearbox selector shaft is still available new from Minikingdomonline.com.au (is Australian Made) and elsewhere.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

This is what you will need. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22G2792-EYE-R ... 3f5bcee7fd


Or if your lazy like me - one of these
http://www.minisport.com/mslms0506-mini ... hange.html

G'day,
thanks for the replies fellas,straightening me out RE. "Rod Change" and the pics, I found a link to Mini Spares which has an exploded view so I should be pretty right now, Joe.
PS My manual did not include rod change.

The bushes in the alloy housing also wear badly. You can obtain suitable sized Teflon lined bushes from any decent bearing supplier.

And the locating groove in the side of the gear stick.

Hi,
so does this http://www.minisport.com/mslms0506-mini ... hange.html
fix a lot of the slack in one swoop?
Joe.

The rod change came in with the Leyland/Clubman cars, so you would need a manual that covers them, or preferably a UK manual as they are different to the Aus cars.

I'd check all the wear parts.. bushes (part 2 & 9), eye rod extension (part 16) the roll pins (part 18) and the parts they connect. Are your engine steady bushes good too? Putting in a new quick shift won't make a difference if the wear is elsewhere.

http://www.minispares.com/catalogues/cl ... x?2~14~128

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Thanks mate, everything on the engine end got replaced when I did the diff (Pinion had a tooth missing, wish I'd gone for a 3.1 instead of 3.4, I'll see if I can find a Manual,
Joe.

Haynes have a 1969-2000 manual, there are some on eBay and also locally. The book number is 0646

http://bmcexperience.com.au/shop/mainte ... nuals.html

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Depends on how many things are worn. But you would be better pulling the entire thing apart and doing the job properly.
I fitted the quickshift because I was up for a new shifter anyway. (worn locating groove and nylon ball) and I suspected the Eye rod extension was also worn due to the slop.

Before you start pulling the unit down, As previously mentioned by others
check,
1 connector sleeve, between selector rod & gearbox
2 side of gear leaver, the sides of the slot should be straight
3 The pin that goes into the housing, then fits into slot should be round
if a flat has developed, you can some times rotate the pin.

If all this is ok then your problem will probably be the rod eye, that is the cast part
that the bottom ball on the gear lever fits into.

Note
often you will find the bottom end of the gear lever is worn, this is because
over time the gear lever has not been lifted to select reverse.
however this will not cause the gear change to be sloppy

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

If the slot in the gearlever ball is worn, it can be welded with hardfacing or toolcraft electrode and ground straight again.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There's also other years available second hand which is basically the same book but this 1969-2000 edition it still available new