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 Post subject: Big Shout out to Dr Mini
PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:30 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:53 pm
Posts: 658
Location: NSW
Spent half the day at Dr Minis place today tracing an electrical gremlin that stopped my rebuild from running.
After checking coils , leads, plugs, swapping dizzies he found we had 2 x fried elec ign modules. Ratted and old diz for its points and condensor, a bit of aerostart and she finally chugged to life. The hamburger was great as was Kevs supply of Heineken.
Top bloke. Thanks for your time mate.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:46 pm 
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Glad to be of help.
It was beer o'clock near the end anyhow. :)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 5:22 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
They sell Heineken at Aldi now :?: :P :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 5:27 pm 
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Location: Kellyville, NSW
Agree.... he is a top bloke!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 6:05 pm 
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ah,,, the good Doc to the rescue once again, well done Doc
:-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Last edited by TheMiniMan on Tue Jan 19, 2016 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 8:15 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:36 pm
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Location: Bentleigh, Melbourne
Said there was nothing wrong with points and condenser!

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 8:57 pm 
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deluxe67 wrote:
Said there was nothing wrong with points and condenser!

It was a genuine original Lucas condenser though. Older than most of you lot (not me). :mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 9:13 pm 
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848cc
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Praise the doc for his knowledge!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 6:38 pm 
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998cc
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little late on the scene, but ...... what caused TWO fried ignitions.... leaving start circuits on>>???? or something other...... just wondering if something else being out of whack is causing it??
glad it is running well though ,,,,


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 7:11 pm 
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I don't know all the history except one was recently used and the other was in an old Aldon spare dizzy. Neither of the modules were new.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 7:36 pm 
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998cc
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Yes i think leaving ign on fried them but they still sparked 3 or 4 times at the start of each crank so thats what of thru me. Hooked up test light and it was flicking on and off. DrMinis timing light told the truth tho with no flashing until the points were installed and condensor swapped from one of his OOS. ( Old Old Stock)
Ive managed to squeeze the 7 port head with twin dellortos and an 1100 S Radiator in the round nose. Had a wheel alignment today so a few more things to tidy up and ill be able to get into some driving.

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Now with 2 extra ports!


Last edited by SuperCooper on Fri Jan 22, 2016 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 8:00 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
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Location: queensland
The electronic ignitions are good in theory and are great when they work, but I would have to say at least one person at every race meet has a problem with electronic ignitions. Problem is there is an inherent belief that (I have an electronic setup in it, nothing will go wrong with that) and the problems easily overlooked. I keep a spare dizzy with NOS 32oz points and condenser in them in the spares kit just in case. Even had the exact same thing going on in the boat and that has a top of the line MSD marine billet system in it with 15 hours on it. Would spark 2 or three times then nothing.
Love em but don't trust em.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 12:46 pm 
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There is a big difference between race conditions and road conditions. It is the constant high RPMs that kills ignition systems.
Calculate the number of sparks per second at full revs and you will soon see why.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 1:08 pm 
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I have never burnt a module out.
In the last 25 years on this Mini I have had a Pertronix module in a 45D, then a Nissan Pulsar (with modified advance curve), now a locked 45D with a Powerspark module and Accuspark Stealth black box.
I used to carry a spare Pulsar dizzy in the boot, but now I don't bother.

With a belt drive cam kit in (so no chain stretch), the timing stays spot on for years.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 5:06 pm 
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Location: Bentleigh Melbourne Victoria Australia
Yes, I owe the doc a few beers. He lives too far away for me to annoy him more but thank God for the internet AND the Doc!

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