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 Post subject: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:00 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
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Loosen the 2 nuts off,,, then pull the lever out all the way (manually) as in physically lever it out with a pipe or a pry bar or some such ,,,until it stops,,, don`t keep pulling it any more tho

If you simply try to use the clutch peddle & the std hydraulics system to push the lever out,,, well it "Usually" won`t move the lever far enough ,,, you need to do it manually. (if you get my drift)

then wind the first nut up till it butts on the case,,, then release the lever,,, then do that first nut up "one-More-Flat",,,, then lock the lock nut against it, nice & tight,,, scissor action with 2 spanners is always best for this ,,, But---> grind down a 15/16ths spanner nice & thin to make sure you don`t fool yourself with the lock nuts

a std width spanner is usually too thick & will fool you into "Thinking" you have locked the 2 nuts together properly,,, a "Thinned" down spanner will fit nice without interference with the other lock nut

job done,,, & if any more people try to tell me that these nuts always come loose,,,, or that you don`t need them,,, or whatever,,, then my brain will explode all over your next 500 meals,,, breakfast lunch & dinners,,, even deserts,,, so there!!!!!!




Is this right - With the lever held out with the pry bar is when you adjust the lever stop screw (the 7/16" one ) to give a 0.050" clearance ?
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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:10 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
TheMiniMan wrote:
Quote:
Loosen the 2 nuts off,,, then pull the lever out all the way (manually) as in physically lever it out with a pipe or a pry bar or some such ,,,until it stops,,, don`t keep pulling it any more tho

If you simply try to use the clutch peddle & the std hydraulics system to push the lever out,,, well it "Usually" won`t move the lever far enough ,,, you need to do it manually. (if you get my drift)

then wind the first nut up till it butts on the case,,, then release the lever,,, then do that first nut up "one-More-Flat",,,, then lock the lock nut against it, nice & tight,,, scissor action with 2 spanners is always best for this ,,, But---> grind down a 15/16ths spanner nice & thin to make sure you don`t fool yourself with the lock nuts

a std width spanner is usually too thick & will fool you into "Thinking" you have locked the 2 nuts together properly,,, a "Thinned" down spanner will fit nice without interference with the other lock nut

job done,,, & if any more people try to tell me that these nuts always come loose,,,, or that you don`t need them,,, or whatever,,, then my brain will explode all over your next 500 meals,,, breakfast lunch & dinners,,, even deserts,,, so there!!!!!!




Is this right - With the lever held out with the pry bar is when you adjust the lever stop screw (the 7/16" one ) to give a 0.050" clearance ?
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[puts on Nomex suit]

IF the flywheel has been lightened, the above backyard mechanic method is all BS- because the 3 brass stops on the diaphragm now have nothing to push against (flywheel is .200" away), you will overstroke the spring.

Do what the book says instead- screw em both back out of the way, adjust the little screw until gap is .020", check freeplay at pedal is about 20mm or so (pedal up).
Go drive it, if it feels right THEN (if you are feeling unlucky), screw the stop screws to the cover and lock em, while someone holds the pedal right down.
:wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:15 pm 
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No that exercise (quoted from theminiman) is to adjust the 2 big overthrow nuts. The small bolt is the freeplay adjustment, which affects the pedal distance required to operate the clutch.

To adjust that, take the return spring off the clutch arm, then with your hand pull the clutch arm till you make the throwout bearing touch the clutch assembly (so there is no freeplay). This is when you adjust the small bolt clearance, which i'm not entirely sure of the official measurement, but i think around 20thou? or a hacksaw blades width etc. Just enough so when the return spring pulls the clutch arm back, the throwout bearing is running against the clutch assembly, but so it is close enough that you don't need to push the pedal to the floor before it touches.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:25 pm 
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I realize Matt was talking about adjusting the 2 big stop nuts, but IF the flywheel is lightened that is NOT the way to do it.
According to the manuals, that's not right even with a stock flywheel, but yep it would work (only for the 10% of Mini owners who still have a stock flywheel).:mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:32 pm 
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And my flywheel in lightened :wink: Thanks Doc

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:38 pm 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
and make sure you adjust it HOT to ensure that the clearance does not close up with expansion. can be a problem if you don't get it quite right.

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