ausmini :: View topic - How to fix trailing arm bar

You need to know how to hold it without damaging it?

Get two blocks and soft wood (not too soft, I use oregan), say 4 x 2 x 4" long. Clamp them together (so it ends up 4 x 4 x 4) then use say a 11/16" speed bore and bore right through on the joint between the two block. When you take it out of the clamp, you'll end up with half a hole (like a trough) across each block.

Then you can lay your pin between them and put it in the vice, clamping them back together again. Tighten the vice as much as you like, you won't hurt the pin.

These pins are 13/16" dia and the threads are 1/2" UNF.

Author:	blue_deluxe [ Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:09 pm ]
Post subject:	How to fix trailing arm bar
I disassembled my rear subframe a few months ago, and now going to put it back together ive found the threads on the end have been crushed. Ive tried running a die down it, but it wont grip. Anyone have any ideas how to fix or is it a replacement job? Cheers, Joe

Author:	awdmoke [ Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:27 pm ]
Post subject:
Run a thread file over the first two "crushed" parts of the thread, then run the die nut down it.

Author:	GT mowog [ Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:54 pm ]
Post subject:
You need to know how to hold it without damaging it? Get two blocks and soft wood (not too soft, I use oregan), say 4 x 2 x 4" long. Clamp them together (so it ends up 4 x 4 x 4) then use say a 11/16" speed bore and bore right through on the joint between the two block. When you take it out of the clamp, you'll end up with half a hole (like a trough) across each block. Then you can lay your pin between them and put it in the vice, clamping them back together again. Tighten the vice as much as you like, you won't hurt the pin. These pins are 13/16" dia and the threads are 1/2" UNF.

Author:	david rosenthal [ Sat Dec 18, 2010 10:45 pm ]
Post subject:
aluminium soft jaws in the vice and carefully file the bruised threads off the end and then use a die nut. The best cutting lubricant ever made is good old lard from the supermarket. It's all we used during my apprenticeship and I still use it today. The old type of trefelex was based on this until some "do gooder" changed it.

Author:	Wombat [ Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:38 am ]
Post subject:
david rosenthal wrote: The old type of trefelex was based on this until some "do gooder" changed it. Don't screw with animals

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Author:	goodie [ Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:41 am ]
Post subject:
GT mowog wrote: You need to know how to hold it without damaging it? Get two blocks and soft wood (not too soft, I use oregan), say 4 x 2 x 4" long. Clamp them together (so it ends up 4 x 4 x 4) then use say a 11/16" speed bore and bore right through on the joint between the two block. When you take it out of the clamp, you'll end up with half a hole (like a trough) across each block. Then you can lay your pin between them and put it in the vice, clamping them back together again. Tighten the vice as much as you like, you won't hurt the pin. These pins are 13/16" dia and the threads are 1/2" UNF. What a top idea !!

Author:	Phat Kat [ Sun Dec 19, 2010 1:56 pm ]
Post subject:
Wombat wrote: david rosenthal wrote: The old type of trefelex was based on this until some "do gooder" changed it. Don't screw with animals Carcinogenic fumes, you can still use it, but you're not allowed to get it hot enough to smoke (yeah no worries ) .... but it is still the best stuff. Rocol is pretty good too.

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