I came across this today: http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... AD005.html

Has anyone considered this or is currently using something like this? I want to know if it can hadle big HP?

Merry Xmas!

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I have heard that on a Mini, it doesn't make any difference....
If you are getting torque steer with your 1330, check the steering rack bush isn't loose.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I get none, I was just curious as to why noone talks about this and lots about torquesteer. I guess now I know why

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Turbo Minis forum has a good discussion about this:

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=1914&fr=0

General consensus is of limited benefit.

_________________
1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

the most interesting point in that is:



big wide wheels just don't work on minis

They do.
The suspension geometry must be adjusted accordingly.
Or do people like Walden have it all wrong?

_________________
Too many cars, and too little time.

Very interesting. I don't get any at all on 10 inch wheels to speak of. GR's 1400 on the other hand running 12's has pronounced torquesteer. This was back when it was running big hp (now it runs rediculous hp)

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

that "equal length" conversion linked to above, is for a limited slip diff out-put shafts,,, so for starters you`d need a limited slip diff with those type inner axles before you can fit the equal length conversion kit

2ndly,,, if you have "so-called" torque steer on your mini,,, (even with big grunt) then i`d suggest you check out the suspension & steering geometry first,,, most """so-called"""" torque steer issues that i`ve seen are usually caused by very very poor control arm angles , pivot point positions, steering rack & outer tie-rod end positions creating more of a """Bump-Steer""" problem than anything else... it`s an easy , simple drawing of a few straight & curved lines & you`ll see where the problem is straight away.

sort that lot & you`ll have little or no """so-called""" torque steer to "Torque" about

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Mine has significantly improved with 10" wheels, a new Dr Mini rack and bushes and some new wheel alignment settings. On low boost ~10-12psi it's straight as a tack, but on high boost it's still nuts but what do you expect with 22psi of boost going through a FWD car with 10" wheels?

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Race track is different to the road, i can use much higher boost on the track with ill effect.

i'd be willing to bet there are 10" wheeled minis out there that handle better..

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I don't see much standard componentry in that front end either!

the A series in there looks so out of place

I'm not sure if any of the above links make not of this, but it's not the uneven driveshafts that cause torque-steer. It's just a front-wheel drive thing - the pivot of the driving wheel cannot be in the same position as the centre on the wheel, which creates a turning force. If wider wheels are used, the front wheel pivots will be further off-centre from the centre of the wheels, which worsens the problem.

In a perfect world, both the wheels will be the same since the turning force on each side will cancel out, but in reality, they will be different, and torque-steer will occur.

I'm no expert, but I think the best thing to do is just make sure all the steering geometry is accurate and even, and make sure the parts aren't worn.

That's assuming the extra width is outboard, not in.

You are talking about `scrub radius', which is the offset between wheel centreline and the projected balljoint axis.
A tyre's centre certainly can be in line with the balljoint axis, (ZERO scrub radius) or even inboard of that as on the VW Golf (NEG scrub radius). VW did that for stability.

A stock Mini (3.5" steel wheels) or Cooper S (4.5" steel wheels) does not have much positive scrub radius at all, so `bump steer' isn't a problem. However when us boyz fit stupid wide (and sometimes stupid big) wheels with big offset, steering stability over bumps, tramlines or ruts suffers regardless of the HP. More HP just makes it worse.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My Moke tramlines & bump steers like a mother biatch on 13x7s.
Torque steer? No not yet... the stroker engine isn't back yet!