any idea what spark plugs i should be using with mega jolt?

what are you using?

I got it all working i have had this problem for a while with my twin su's but they are making my plugs go black all the time on dizzie or Mjolt.

so to rich? does this kill plugs? my car recently started to splatter a bit & would not start i put new plugs in & she started again normally.

i just turned the mixture down a bit & it seems fine.

The plugs are normally worked out by what heat range your engine needs rather than the particular ignition system, however if yours has a considerably higher output voltage you can (to a small advantage) open the plug gap from 0.025" to maybe 0.030" or even 0.035". Some of the newer cars on the road run up to 0.050"!

Yeah, if the plugs are always black and start running rough, then they are fouling (most likely for too rich) and is quite undesirable for a number of reasons.

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Nick please take your time to read through the autolabs forums for megajolt there is a lot of information there, including on plugs and gaps. From memory I think mine are BP6E(?) gapped at 50 thou.

Cheers

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

Bsp6 "R for resistor? I think I had those in I changed back to
Bsp5"s on dizzy for now.

I will ask on the autolabs forum.

Are you able to check tim? What you have?

Try BPR6ES-11 these are pre-gapped at 1.1 mm (0.043") and are available from Supercheap.

Only run resistor plugs and resistive leads with Megajolt/squirt.

My Megasquirt with direct drive coil ford pack works very well with these.

See: http://www.ngkspark.com.au/sparkplug.php#

If your getting sooty plugs, your running too rich, get it sorted, higher powered ignitions are not a panacea for fuelling problems.

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

why? i don't use resistive plugs or leads, no matter if factory or DIY EFI/ignition. and never had any problem with EMI or RFI

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Rover 214 atm ....

Well, you are very luck then. I believe MS recommend you to run resistive.Look under the bonnet of most modern cars with EFI, resistive! I would ask why would you introduce a source of EMI into a already hostile environment that the ECU has to cope with! Look at the number of people having false triggering problems from EMI issues!

Also if a newby (sorry I don't mean to offend you NG) asks what to run, I try my hardest to give him/her sound advice based upon sound technical engineering principals, that I have gleamed in my 36+ year career.

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

I have been told it is a safe guard resister plugs or leads & they do not recommend with out.

but both resisters are not really needed? is what i was told.

i will try BPR6ES-11 thanks no need to gap them? or just in we go?

yes im very new to this whole mega jolt thing hehe but it is very impressive really smoothed the car out.

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

using non-resistive parts doesn't mean higher EMI.
using resistive plugs and leads are the cheapest way to meet the rules, thats why the manufacturers are using it. i would too, if i could save 1$ a car and putting out more than 200 cars a day.
and i don't say that using resistive plugs/leads is bad, it works millions of times every day. but it's not true that if you're using non-resistive parts you will have more trouble with EMI.
that are my 20 years of experience

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Rover 214 atm ....

I believe (may be wrong) that these resistor plugs take the place of resistor leads, you should not run both (with a stock ignition)??
I used to use Bosch plugs, gave em up when non-resistor ones went NLA.
Thanks, Robert (Bosch)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I always run triple electrode platinum plugs with the good quality copper core H.T leads and a coil with enough spark to kill a bull.
If the spark is not good enough to ignite the fuel with a good flame front then it will not burnt and produce the energy required.
Also check that there is no spark leakage in leads/plugs/to earth.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

New leads and Plugs they just fouled up in about 3 days and the
Car would not start like mega black plugs.

Was a bit rich on dizzy, since then i changed the mixture a touch more.

I put new ones in and turned the mixture down a bit.
It's not as bad now.

But just wanted proper Resistor plugs i think I'm using
Bpr5 Cooper s on the dizzy.

But was not sure what to run on mega jolt.

What ones do you have dave?

I was running BP5ES-11 with my MJ setup ... warmer plug = less fouling but in my experience just masking another problem.

You have said twice that you adjusted the mixture - How???
Did you change needles or turn the mixture screws? If the latter, your not REALLY adjusting mixture...

I suggest you run the BPR6ES-11 in it, but get the tune right first. Mine would foul in a couple of days but hitting 15psi a few times seems to cure that issue

Seriously though, the fouling could be a few things but the BPR6ES-11 OR the BP6ES-11 are fine for it... the ONLY time I found issues using NON-resistor plugs was when I had the AMP and stereo installed - it would give feedback through the Amped speakers. I tried every audio solution and in the end it was the MJ combined with non-resistor plugs. I changed them to BPR6ES-11 and the radio noise went away ... being a colder plug they foul though... and yes I take my own advice and the needles are being modified, etc and tuned all over again.

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